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Oliver, Cletrac, Co-op & Cockshutt Tractors Discussion Forum
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Good oliver diesel tractor for stock pulling

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mike q

04-19-2007 06:59:20




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Looking for a strong tractor (1960-1975)year for stock tractor pulling class.What model and year oliver tractor you think be agood place to start with. Thank you, Mike




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JEREMIAH

05-30-2007 20:30:55




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 Re: Good oliver diesel tractor for stock pulling in reply to mike q, 04-19-2007 06:59:20  
I HAVE A 1655 THAT I WOULD BE INTERESTED IN SELLING. GIVE ME A CALL 903-646-4537



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WFE 2

04-19-2007 10:42:34




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 Re: Good oliver diesel tractor for stock pulling in reply to mike q, 04-19-2007 06:59:20  
Great question! A few for you first. What are your base rules defining stock class? (Restricted by model year, engine displacement, are aftermarket turbos allowed or only if they were factory, must have factory block, tire size, drawbar; is there a speed limit; etc.) In what weight class do you want to pull? All of these things will determine which Oliver model will be best suited to competing for you.

As an example, in the stock classes in which I pull, the tractor must have stock block and engine equipment (no aftermarket turbos allowed, which is key) and rpms are held to 10% over stock rpm. Must have factory drawbars and they cannot be modified in any way. Also, no pressed steel wheel centers unless they were factory equipped. There is usually a 5mph speed limit in the classes from 12,500 lbs and below. I pull with a 1950-T in the 10,500 lb. and occasionally to 12,500 lbs. Does well at 10,500. The turboed 310 Oliver diesel coupled to the Over/Under is a real strong advantage over say a JD 4020 (no aftermarket turbos on them remember) with their Syncro-shift conglomeration. I can't make it any lighter without going to pressed steel in the rear, but can't do that with the rules and wouldn't want to anyway. I would highly recommend the Over/Under in any tractor you choose; it can mean several extra feet when used properly and shifts very smoothly, especially into Under with no power hesitation or disruption. Also pull a 2255 in heavier classes (13,500 and up). Lots of cubic inches with the 3208 even without a turbo that helps it compete; it's a lot of fun.

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Vern Karman

04-19-2007 18:45:18




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 Re: Good oliver diesel tractor for stock pulling in reply to WFE 2, 04-19-2007 10:42:34  
Just wondering how you've got your pump/injectors set up on your T and what horsepower range you're in. I've been told that I need to get up to at least 250 to be competitive with my T in "Stock" Farm class.



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WFE 2

04-19-2007 19:40:37




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 Re: Good oliver diesel tractor for stock pulling in reply to Vern Karman, 04-19-2007 18:45:18  
Wow, that's some "stock" class. It is always amusing to see what some pulls are willing to accept as "stock". I guess we are a bit more strict on the definition, and that is also the reason for the 5 mph speed limit. At 10,500 pounds, in a class with tractors like the 1950-T, John Deere 4020s, A-C 190XTs, and IH 806s/1256s, the reasoning is that 5mph was their comfortable field speed and a tractor running 100-130hp shouldn't be able to pull the sled any faster than that - the aim being to keep the hot-rods in the class in which they belong. That said, particularly my T and the A-C 190XTs (also small turbocharged engines) run strong. My T is only set at 150hp and all components are stock (pump, nozzles, turbo, head, etc.). It pulls fine there but I don't know that I'd trust the rods to take much more than that without having them hardened. I'd always thought it would be fun to take a 310 up to 250+ hp and compete in the hotter classes; I'd have to talk to the guys at Maibach or someone else who has rebuilt these 310s to higher power levels to see how to do it and where to get the parts, because I'm guessing that a guy would need bigger plungers, bigger nozzles, more turbo, a block stiffener, custom rods, and maybe a custom crank?? If anyone is running a really hot 310, I would like to hear how you got there because I think it would be fun to take an 1855 to that level someday. I prefer to keep my T original as an intact T block is something pretty rare and they'll only get harder to find, whereas the '55 series 310 blocks will be more plentiful. Right now I can keep the "stock" 4020s in their rightful place. Boy does it bother the JD boys to have their almighty 4020 humbled by a better tractor. Good for the soul!

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dad's88

04-19-2007 22:10:40




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 Re: Good oliver diesel tractor for stock pulling in reply to WFE 2, 04-19-2007 19:40:37  
What is the difference between the 1950-T block and a 1955 block?



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WFE 2

04-20-2007 05:19:21




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 Re: Good oliver diesel tractor for stock pulling in reply to dad's88, 04-19-2007 22:10:40  
I'm not sure if or how Oliver denoted the change in block design (block number change?) or if they simply implemented it as a running change/improvement to the existing number, but the T block takes a different head gasket due to coolant passage differences, particularly around #6 hole.



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Super 99 Guy

04-20-2007 11:27:29




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 Re: Good oliver diesel tractor for stock pulling in reply to WFE 2, 04-20-2007 05:19:21  
Is is it possible to identify the 1950-T block from the outside?



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Buckeye Oliver collector

05-02-2007 19:38:19




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 Re: Good oliver diesel tractor for stock pulling in reply to Super 99 Guy, 04-20-2007 11:27:29  
I think a 1650 would make for a good stock pulling tractor. Theres quite a few at the pulls here. They run in the 6500, 7500, and 8500 lbs classes.



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