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To replace the clutch you have to pull the engine out of the tub unless you don't have a hydra-power. If you don't have that, you can unbolt the bell housing and slide it back, but it sounds like you do have the Hydra-power based on the 2 leaks you decribe. BEFORE YOU PULL THE ENGINE- you MUST remove the long PTO drive shaft through the rear of the tractor. Above the PTO there is a cover, take that off, then unbolt the pto clutch pack from the rear housing. The shaft should pull out fairly easy in these tractors, but you may have to turn it and jiggle it to get the splines to line up so you can pull it the rest of the way out. To pull the engine, you pull the engine and hydra-power as an assembly, then take them apart later. You can set the H-P on a sheet of plywood(really doesn't weigh much more than 150 lbs or so) over the empty engine tub, and then set the engine next to it on the tub to work on the clutch. Also, to lift the engine, if the 2 head bolts are in the right place (the ones with about 1 1/2" of thread on the top) which around the middle of the engine, with the hydra power attatched, you are supposed to be able to hook onto only the rear stud and lift the entire assembly out by that and it will balance just right to pull the engine and hydra power in one shot. You can try to adjust it first- this is direct from the operator's manual:
"Clutch Linkage adjustment:
Adjust the linkage whenever the clutch pedal free travel has decreased to approximatley1/8 of an inch. Pedal free travel is the distance the pedal can be depressed from it's engaged position to a point where the clutch begins to disengage. Measure this distance vertically at the rear of the pedal. To adjust the linkage, loosen the jam nut and remove the clevis pin. Rotate the adjusting clevis clockwise until the pedal free travel has been increased to about 3/4 of an inch. Reinstall the clevis pin and tightten the jam nut."
Hope this helps!! Donovan from Wisconsin
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