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Oliver, Cletrac, Co-op & Cockshutt Tractors Discussion Forum
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Larry from md

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Nusbaum Farms

01-05-2007 05:04:57




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Larry
Last week I had a post about a power steering leak under the dash of my 1755. You mentioned being a fan of the Char-lin steering units. Can you give me more info about them.
Thanks




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B A Star

01-05-2007 13:41:55




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 Re: Larry from md in reply to Nusbaum Farms, 01-05-2007 05:04:57  
    Just had to jump in here on the Power Steering discussion on the 55 series tractors.  The 55 series models used the Saginaw (division of GM) built hydramotor through S/N 231 414 (very early in 1972)  The style of steering wheel with the push button in the center in place of the chrome knob indicates the change.

    There was a changeover package announced on Service Bulletin #430 455 dated September 30, 71, as GM had discontinued the original design.  An Instruction for Assembly #432 301 dated November 21, 71 for use on the 17 through 1955 tractors.  Those were followed by a Parts Bulletin #433 133 on April 7, 72.  You should be able to find them at a AGCO dealership.

    Oliver's original part number for the Char Lynn Hydramotor was 30-3052001 with a Char Lynn # 201 1098-001.  Part Number 30-3052001 was replaced by 30-3177084, then by 30-3322092.  The hydramotor has a rotationg valve in the housing with a second valve inside the rotating valve.  There are leaf springs that drive the two rotating valves. When the steering wheel is turned, the leaf springs flex allow the inner valve to be repositioned within the outer valve to direct pressure fluid for steering assist.  One of the changes was a change in the strength of the leaf springs.  It was increased to assure that the inner valve would return to the "N" position.  Of course with the increase in strength of the leaf springs, the effort to steer was increased.

    IMPORTANT Do not operate the tractor with fluid that is too hot, 200 degrees +.  Operating the tractor with fluid that is too hot could result in self steering, normally to the left because the increase in temperature above design causes the inner valve to "stick" and not return to "N". A steering motor as used on the Massey Combine would be of the open center type, thus will not work on a closed center system as used on the 55 series.

    The red hydraulic system temperature warning light should come on at 200 + - degrees. Check the light by turning on the key switch and grounding the sensor at the filter head.  If the light does not come on, it could be a failed bulb or a wiring problem.  Fix it.

    DO NOT IGNORE THE TEMPERATURE LIGHT, Get it corrected.

    If you are going to make changes to the steering system using other parts other thatn engineered on a vehicle and you are the only operator, OK.  Don't create a danger for someone else.

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Shep VA

01-05-2007 16:17:22




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 Witch one do I need?? in reply to B A Star, 01-05-2007 13:41:55  
Ok guys, I was looking on www.surpluscenter.com and they have lots of Char-lynn hydramoters but I dont know witch one will work. Go to the website and type in Char-lynn and tell me the one that works in this application.

Thanks



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Larry from md

01-06-2007 09:43:18




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 Re: Witch one do I need?? in reply to Shep VA, 01-05-2007 16:17:22  
I would think the 9-7113. Last years catolue has some smaller ones, they must be sold out.When i have asked them they allways were out of the 12" steering colums and thats the one to use with their steering wheel..The 3 1/2 column i think is what is on the massy combines. I use that short one and attach the oliver column to it,along with the oliver wheel.



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Shep VA

01-07-2007 08:37:38




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 Re: Witch one do I need?? in reply to Larry from md, 01-06-2007 09:43:18  
Thanks Larry, that is what I needed to know. I will try to talk to them Monday and see if I can get some parts on the way.

Thanks again..



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J Schwiebert

01-05-2007 06:12:50




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 Re: Larry from md in reply to Nusbaum Farms, 01-05-2007 05:04:57  
I am not trying to steel Larry's thunder. But your 1755 may already have a Charlynn unit. Once G-M discontinued the hydramotor Oliver went to Charlynn. Also remember your 1755 takes a CLOSED CENTER Unit not an open center if you do make a swap. A serial number would help for a starter. I read that post as well. Have a good day.



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Shep Va

01-05-2007 08:35:25




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 Re: Larry from md in reply to J Schwiebert, 01-05-2007 06:12:50  
The 1755 you have should already have a Charlynn unit in it, all my 55 series tractors do.

I have an 1850 with a Saganaw (sp) unit in it now that is leaking and I am looking to replace it with a Charlynn.

The way you can tell the difference is in the hoses, the Charlynn will have the 4 hoses all on one side of the unit and it normally says Charlynn on the bottom of the unit (that is a dead give away :-). The Saganaw units are huge in comparison and the hoses are spread out on different sides of the unit.

Anyone know how hard it is to change a Saganaw to a Charlynn and what parts I need to do an 1850?? I have never messed much with hydramotors but I am going to have to do something with my 1850 this winter.

Thanks

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Fred Whittaker

01-05-2007 09:42:19




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 Re: Larry from md in reply to Shep Va, 01-05-2007 08:35:25  
I'm with J and Shep. Your 1755 should aready have the charlynn unit.

Shep. We replaced the saganaw unit in one of our 1850's with a charlynn unit that came out of our 1950 (someone that had it before us must have changed it over). It is kinda a pain getting it out of there. If I remember correctly, I had to remove the steering wheel and the part of the dash with all of the instuments. Then there are those large screws with locking nuts that the unit pivots on that have to be backed out enough to get the unit out. I think that there is a plug in the sheet metal part of the dash (next to handle) that comes out and you can back these out with a large flat head screw driver. That should be about it to getting it out, other than the hoses of course. Oh yeah, you will probrably need to press the tilt wheel pedal down when you lift it out of there, so that the pin that holds the tilt in position is pulled out of the unit.

The charlynn unit was in some sort of frame, since the unit itself is much smaller than the saganaw unit, that held the unit but also allowed for the pivot pins and tilt holding pin to be used as it was for the saganaw unit. It may be the same frame that was used in the 55 series. J or some of the other experts in here could probrably tell you that. Also, I believe that the ends of the hoses were different that connect to the charlynn unit, so you may need to have some hoses made to go from the unit to where the original hoses attached to the steel lines near the coupling chain on the hydraul shift.

I think that the steering wheel and column are different as well. I hope this helps.

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Larry from md

01-05-2007 12:35:30




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 Re: Larry from md in reply to Fred Whittaker, 01-05-2007 09:42:19  
I like to remove the hood and fuel tank so i can work from that side and leave all the dash wires connected.



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Larry from md

01-05-2007 09:20:19




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 Re: Larry from md in reply to Shep Va, 01-05-2007 08:35:25  
The char-lin units all seem to steer easyer and last without breaking down when you need the tractor.The 1555 i have came with the old style unit so i wasn't sure which one was in a 1755. For shep va i would think changeing one over should be easy. You can buy kits or do like me and just do it yourself. For an 1850 i like to use a steering unit from a 410 or 510 massy combine (get the stort stub shaft too). I weld up a piece of 3 plates that looks like the ones used in newer oliver and white tractors.This holds the unit and lets it pivot. You can allso use the old base of the sagigina unit.Have new hoses made up.Weld a short tube on the bottem of the steering wheel shaft and slip over top of the new stub shaft and cross drill through both pieces.Then bolt together. You can buy a new steering wheel and shaft,but the tractor does not look oridional. Make sure everything is made strong, people pull hard on the steering wheel.You can buy new open or closed center units.

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Shep Va

01-05-2007 10:39:31




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 Re: Larry from md in reply to Larry from md, 01-05-2007 09:20:19  
Thanks guys, I figured it would not be too hard to change, I have just never done one and wanted to see from some people who had how to do it. Looks like I need to find some combine parts and do a little modifying.

Thanks.



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