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RAB
01-22-2006 11:55:19
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Re: Find find Oliver parts??? in reply to scottf, 01-22-2006 10:36:48
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Scottf,
I think you misread my posts. No extraordinary effort at all.
The valves are sitting on my computer room floor.
I am replacing this GAS head with a KD head from my limited stock of parts. I am also replacing the crank and rods as they are unserviceable, but not beyond reconditioning.
The previous owner had a disaster with a dropped valve and replaced the original KD head with a 99 head (in Ca). I am simply fitting the correct head so I can run on Kero (gas is about $5.70 per gallon in US $ and US gallons in the UK!)
I daresay this head and valves will lay in my garage/workshop for many years to come and then get scrapped after I am gone!
I have also found, on this engine, that he didnt tighten ANY castellated nuts on ANY woodruff keyed shafts, so the timing has about 30-40 degrees backlash and the oil pump key was almost worn through - a huge amount of backlash but more importantly almost no drive! I will have to weld up keyways and re-machine, but might just replace oil pump drive shaft.
Check those governor bearings! Weights through the housing is a disaster (got one like that in my garage).
Oil impregnated bronze? do you mean sintered oilite bronze? They should be perfectly OK made with normal bronze bar. I replaced my fan shaft oilite bearings and there is lots of oil on the front of the engine. With eight valve guides leaking oil, your valve heads will probably soon get coked up and it might even be smoky at start up. I think the originals were brass, not bronze but would have to check that.
Bringing the valve faces further into the cylinder head will make very little difference to your compression ratio. Better to mill the head if you want more power, along with cleaning up the combustion chambers, balancing combustion volumes etc etc. Are you running cast iron pistons? They are big and HEAVY.
BTW if you are refacing your exhaust valves, I think you will find they are silchrome or stellite faced so they are very hard. You may be removing most of the hardness with machining and you will probably be fitting stellite valve inserts, if they are modern ones. I think the originals were not that hard and you could be running into metal compatibility problems, so a word with John Sweibert for advice may be appropriate, rather than risking a disaster like a broken valve (yes, my 90 dropped a valve, cracked the head, seized and was in parts when I finally gained possession of it!)
I have the workshop manual if you need any further info. E-mail is open. Post to me off board if you want and I will send my email addyRegards, RAB
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