Oliver 550 Brake Adjustment Question

OK, brake adjustment I figure. I read on the big service manul (page 7-109) that you losen a lock nut, then turn the adjustment bolt right to tighten, left to loosen brakes. I assume I need to tighten the right side.

The adjustment is as far down (tight) as it goes. I figure, new brakes is what I need. But after coming in the house and thinking about it, I have a question.

With the adjustment bolt all the way tightened, the "rod" that actuates the brake on that side is at it's SHORTEST length. When I press the pedal, the rod moves "up" towards the tractor seat, thus "pushing" the brake. It seems to me that if I "loosen" the bolt, the rod will get longer, thus the pedal will apply the brakes "sooner", thus giving me more pedal, this more braking power?

As a logic comparrison, the left wheel will lock easily and it has about 8 washers sticking out under the tractor. These were put under the head of the adjustment bolt. Thus the left side has a longer travel.

Am I loosing it, or does any of this make sense? I can take pictures and post them if need be.

Thanks for bearing with my long-winded-ness.

Thanx,
Matt

Not bad, but still not as good as I had hoped. I can get the linings and rivets for the brakes and reline them myself for $18 per pad. I figure that's half the cost of pads, but twice the work. Since I've never relined a pad, I think it'd be best to go with with whole pad, right? Heck, the whole thing might be wore out anyway.

Thanks for all the help guys!

Thanx,
Matt

I'd really like for the 550 to keep it's feet on the ground for this. It seems that everything is readily accessible with the wheels on, but I'd hate to tear into it, then find out I need to remove a wheel, etc.

Also, according to the manual, it doesn't seem like it's too big a job for me to tackle in an afternoon. Have I already lulled myself into a false sense of security in that respect?

Thanx,
Matt

OK, I have reread the procedure again, and with the pictures it shows and guidance you guys have given, think this is something I can handle pretty well. Unfortunately I know one of the brake cross shaft seals are leaking. Ithink I am going to assume that any seal may be leaking and just go ahead and get those and the brake discs before even taking the things apart. Hopefully nothing else has went south on me.

As far as cost, is it correct to assume that if only seals are leaking and I replace the brake disks I am looking at less than about $200? (A lot of factors come into play here I know.)

Thanx,
Matt

Would there be any harm in taking things apart and inspecting everything, then putting it back together as is? That way I can "know" for sure whether I need anything in addition to what I have already assumed? Does experience say, "Once it's apart, don't put it back without new stuff?" Or will it be OK to put back what is there and wait for a week or two? I don't want to buy too little (or too much!).

I don't do any plowing/hogging/anything with the tractor right now because I have no attachments. I bought it primarily as a yard mower with the ability to move on up in work ability next year (bushhog, box blade, etc.). The most it should have to do is test out a finish mower in the next week or so. It may pull the kids on the little wagon for a trip around the yard, but that's all. It does stop OK.

Thanx again,
Matt

On a side note, I thought tractor brakes were supposed to lock up to allow for better turning. Is that not correct?

Thanx,
Matt