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Oliver, Cletrac, Co-op & Cockshutt Tractors Discussion Forum
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Removing 70 engine

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Jason P Mortzhe

05-11-2005 07:22:07




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I will soon be removing 2-3 oliver 70 engines in the process of rebuild/repair. (two wfe will be restored - one smokes, one threw a rod through the block - and I have a non-stuck 70 replacement engine on a narrow front).

My service manual talks about the front bolt which is pretty easy and I did that with my other part unit but the rear connections starts to talk about a special Oliver tool??? Has anybody removed an engine and did they use this special tool or find another option?

The last engine I broke at the clutch housing and removed that way leaving the clutch housing intact and mounted to the the frame with those special bolts. However, that was to strip a stuck part engine and I did not care. But now I will be repainting the tub while the engine is out so I really would like to disassemble that connection.

Thanks in adance for any advice/experiences.

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tom upton

05-11-2005 19:28:29




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 Re: Removing 70 engine in reply to Jason P Mortzheim, 05-11-2005 07:22:07  
Dont forget to take out the sq. hd. setscrew that locks the pin in and spray some WD40 down the hole it came out of. other guys ideas are great , I happened to have a slide hammer with the correct size thread on the end of it allready so screwed it in and slide hammered out. (I guess the old saying is true- always more than one way to skin a cat)



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john-holcomb

05-11-2005 10:55:39




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 Re: Removing 70 engine in reply to Jason P Mortzheim, 05-11-2005 07:22:07  
Dennys Idea will work but this may be a little quicker. Get a piece of 1/2-13 Hardened [important go to fastenal do not use hardware store rod] threaded rod about 8 inches long and screw it into the pin. Cut a chunk of 1-1/4 black pipe 6 inches long and put over thd. rod. Use about 3 heavy washers or a piece of 3/8 plate with a 9/16 hole to place at the end of the pipe. Screw on a 3/4 hardened heavy hex nut, center the pipe around the pin and just crank it out. I have removed 30 or more pins this way with the same puller. but I found out the hard way that regular thd. rod will pull apart and is a pain to get out of the pin. Good luck

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Texas Denny

05-11-2005 13:07:40




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 Re: Removing 70 engine in reply to john-holcomb, 05-11-2005 10:55:39  
If the pin is not too stuck, this is a lot better idea. Threaded rods however are the poorest grade of steel. If it breaks off inside the pin you have another problem. That is why I suggested a better bolt like a grade 8. It is slower system but offers the fewest possibilities for the unexpected. In fact, the combination of the two may be the best. Once that pin moves the first millimeter, any threaded rod should do the trick.

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john-holcomb

05-11-2005 19:56:48




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 Re: Removing 70 engine in reply to Texas Denny, 05-11-2005 13:07:40  
Denny, Hardened Threaded rod is the same as a grade 8 bolt and is not that easy to get. It takes the teeth off a hack saw and cost about 10 time more than the normal threaded rod that is grade nothing. I worked as an engineer for Federal Screw Works {your vehicle has there bolts in the suspension no matter the make or country of origin] and you are correct hardware store threaded rod is not mush better than bubble gum. But hardened grade 8 threaded rod is out there Fastenal has it it just cost alot.

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Texas Denny

05-11-2005 21:10:07




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 Re: Removing 70 engine in reply to john-holcomb, 05-11-2005 19:56:48  
I never ran across rod as you describe which is why I go for a better grade bolt. Thanks for the information. Never heard of Fastenal. Are they on the web?



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Texas Denny

05-11-2005 09:02:50




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 Re: Removing 70 engine in reply to Jason P Mortzheim, 05-11-2005 07:22:07  
It has been awhile since I did this but I did do it on both my 1936 70 and my 1941 parts tractor. There should be a tapped hole in the center of the pin. You need to get the the threads clean to the bottom so you have adequate threads engaged. A regular tap will clean the top threads. Then a bottom tap can be used to clean the bottom threads. You need about an inch of good threads. Then find washers that are big enough to go over the pin. You will start with one of these washers. I made a washer that was the same OD as this washer with a hole the correct size for the bolt that screws into the threads in the pin (this could be a plate as well). I made this washer (plate) 1/4" thick. Then you select the correct thread and length bolt (use a high grade steel bolt - not a standard), lubricate the threads with a good grade of oil and slowly turn it in. As it turns, it should pull the pin. After you've moved it approximately the thickness of the large washer, you need to take it apart and add a second washer. Repeat the sequence with additional washers until the pin is out far enough to pull it by hand. You may need a lot of the large washers. I think that I had five or six. Once it is out, clean the pin throughly as well as the mating surface, lubricate it, and put it back in so that it can support the engine weight. If you don't do this, the other side will be much harder to get out. Repeat on the other side.

Certainly a tool could accomplish this faster. After the pin is moving, you may able to do two washers at a time (if it is moving easily). Make certain that you have maximum thread engagement for the first washer as breaking it loose takes a bunch of power.

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Larry NE IL

05-11-2005 19:54:16




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 Re: Removing 70 engine in reply to Texas Denny, 05-11-2005 09:02:50  
I do it the same as John H. Worked great for 4 of mine. Tape the shims that are on the front support and sides together and mark them for later reuse.



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