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Oliver, Cletrac, Co-op & Cockshutt Tractors Discussion Forum
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1855- touchy hydraulics

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Don-Wi

05-07-2005 12:05:02




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Our 1855's hydraulics get real finicky when on our spring tooth. When lowering they jerk and chatter then shoot the hose out of the coupler. How can I adjust this? Also sometimes when on other implements as well if I hit the lever forward to hard they won't move like there's air in the system, but I've worked them back and forth so many times I don't think there could be any left in there. Doesn't matter what side I have them on either.
Donovan from Wisconsin

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B A Star

05-07-2005 23:27:18




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 Re: 1855- touchy hydraulics in reply to Don-Wi, 05-07-2005 12:05:02  
third party image

Your hydraulics should not be touchy if everything is connected properly and adjusted properly. 1st, are your hoses hooked up so that the implement is lowered with the forward movement of the lever, if not change them. 2nd, have the 90 degree fittings on the bottom of the valves been off for some reason? The rear fittings have a sleeve with a cross pin that retains a ball above the pin. If the fitting has been removed, the sleeve, pin and ball probably have fallen out. If they are not there, replace them. Without these parts you can adjust all day and it will not work. Refer to the scaned photo from the shop manual. There are three restrictors on your tractor. The one on the valve manifold controls flow to the detent valves, thus the rate of raise. The restrictor valves under the valves control the rate of drop. Loosen the lock nut and turn the screw all the way in until it seats (it will take quite a few turns to seat it) and turn back out 3/4 to one turn. With the oil warmed up run the engine at the speed you normally run it when raiseing and lowering the implement. Adjust the screw in or out to get a good steady rate of drop that is acceptable for your operation. The locking of the system is probably caused by the coupler end that you have on the hoses. The factory male ends for the hoses have a limiting pin that limits the travel of the valve to keep it centered. If you put on couplers on your hoses that do not have the limit pins, the valves in the male end will over travel and allow the female valve to close and lock the system. If you purchased male ends from a Farm Fleet type store you probably got the non limit type valve because of price. If memory serves me correctly, the good couplers are 7000 series and the non limit coupler is a 6000 series. If the coupler is off of the hose, you can shake it and hear the pin moving. If the lowering restrictors are adjusted properly, you should be able to get by with the non limit coupler. You may have to readjust for a change in load.

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Don-Wi

05-08-2005 08:06:25




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 Re: 1855- touchy hydraulics in reply to B A Star, 05-07-2005 23:27:18  
I was hopeing you would reply. To answer your questions:
1: Yes, forward is down and back is up
2: I've never removed them, but it's posible the previouse owner may have.
3:The male ends are probably as old as the tractor. It's an Oliver cylinder w/ the hydra lectric wireing. I honestly can't tell what series they would be.

Thanks, I'll maybe try some new ends and I'll try to adjust the restrictor valves. Donovan from Wisconsin

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m kuhns

05-07-2005 21:11:46




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 Re: 1855- touchy hydraulics in reply to Don-Wi, 05-07-2005 12:05:02  
Did you try different ends on the hoses of your spring tooth? Sometimes the ends causes symptoms like you are saying.



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Wrenchbender

05-07-2005 20:56:46




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 Re: 1855- touchy hydraulics in reply to Don-Wi, 05-07-2005 12:05:02  
I believe the second part of your question may be a sticky compensator valve. When you move the lever the pump has to go "into stroke" to supply more oil flow. When the comp. valve sticks it causes a lag time in the pump going into stroke and supplying the needed oil. You probably seem to lose all the hyd momentarily when that happens. WB.



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J. Schwiebert

05-07-2005 19:09:41




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 Re: 1855- touchy hydraulics in reply to Don-Wi, 05-07-2005 12:05:02  
Do you have an operators manual? I do but not in front of me. Anyhow I was going to tell you what section to look at but it sounds to me like you do not have your rate of drop adjusted correctly. It sounds to me like the weight of the spring tooth is enough that it forces the oil out of the cylinder. You need to turn the adjusting screw which is located on the valve below the spool in. How much I don't know you are watching it go down it should be nice and smooth and also have the engine run about 12-1500 when you do. You want the pump to supply more oil to the valve than what the weight of the implement is forcing out. I don't understand the other part of your question.

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Don-Wi

05-07-2005 22:11:04




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 Re: 1855- touchy hydraulics in reply to J. Schwiebert, 05-07-2005 19:09:41  
The spring tooth folds straight up onto the wheels, so I guess that sounds like my problem. The other part is, if I move the lever to fast the remotes will lock up, and I have to raise it back up and slowly ease the lever forward into lowering.

We don't have an operator's manual, just the service. Been meaning to ask about one at the dealership but it always seems to slip my mind when they ask if I need anyting else.
Donovan from Wisconsin

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Jim Meade

05-08-2005 04:07:08




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 Operator's manual in reply to Don-Wi, 05-07-2005 22:11:04  
You can buy an operator's manual resaonably from Floyd County Museum (google their web site for a phone number) or from eBay or from other reprinters you can find in the advertisements in the popular Oliver magazines.



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Edchainsaw

05-10-2005 20:11:05




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 Re: Operator's manual in reply to Jim Meade, 05-08-2005 04:07:08  
our 1955 does that a bit on our greatplains drill

lowering (especially at idle)

dispite its problems it beats the newer massey that's running the drill now... ( well the airconditioner is hard to nock)



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