How can i get my 1655 started?

J. Schweibert is right. You shouldn't have to worry about starting aids like ether and manifold heaters for sure down to 32 above and maybe even colder if everything is right on your tractor.
I had the same problem with my 1655. Always start with the easiest and cheapest solutions first. Having good batteries and cables as well as a good starter would be first. You mentioned checking the injectors. That's a good idea. You can pull them out without having to pull the engine apart. Have them tested. If the breakout pressure is not at least 2500-2600 PSI and they don't chatter (mist) when tested, then they can be the cause of hard starting. If you do all of the above including replacing bad injectors and it doesn't help, then I'm afraid you'll need to tear the engine apart. You could have a broken ring like someone else suggested or a just plain tired engine with low compression. Another possibility is that your exhaust valve seats are recessed too far in the head from wear and will need to be replaced. If you have to tear the engine down, then you might as well do a complete rebuild.

I have a 1650 diesel (direct injection) same as a 1655 engine with just under 1000 hrs on a major rebuild too! When I bought it it was hard 2 start, but an cash cropper friend who deals with alot of machinery told me to run it doing some hard plowing or something for a while and see if it started better after that.

I put some injector cleaner/fuel conditioner in it, pulled a 5 furrow plow in 2nd gear wide open in heavy clay, and plowed about 40 acres that way. It had always run really clean before this, but once I started, sparks and carbon poured out of the stack, and when I was done, it started just like a new machine.

If I were you, that's what I would do B4 I pulled the injectors out or something.....if you do that, its likely you'd have to rebuild your pump as well, injectors and pumps like to be replaced together.

Anyway, I hope this helps you out, if you have anymore questions send me a line at [email protected]

God bless,

Pawel

it does the same thing... we replaced the heater button with a big can of either.. used that up over the years (6) and ya its a bear --- I have a heat sensing plugin that I pulg the block heater up to in the winter below 40degrees it works .. above your on your own.

we have put new wires on it too.. ours is just plain hard to start when its not warmed up.

No it's not absolutely imperative that you replace them at the same time but you will have to sooner than you would if you just left them the way they are. If you have a pump and injectors that are both equally worn, then you replace only the injectors, what happens? You increase the pressure on the pump by the new injectors, but its stil an old pump. The result is, you get more fuel leaking past the pistons on the pump,and consequently the pump will wear a lot faster than if you had left them alone. It would actually be cheaper to replace them both at the same time, less to rebuild, more time saved, less headache... Its kind of like doing a top-end overhaul on an engine that needs a total rebuild- with all the new power generated by your front end overhaul, its going to put alot more stress on the old crackshaft, piston rods, etc. Just my $.o2 worth :)

God bless,

Pawel