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Oliver, Cletrac, Co-op & Cockshutt Tractors Discussion Forum
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Replacing the clutch in a Super 55

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Super 55

12-29-2004 11:04:23




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I understand there was a 9" and 10" clutch. My tractor has the 9" clutch, but I heard I can replace it with a 10". Anybody have a good source for the 10" clutch"




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ShepFL

12-30-2004 07:35:20




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 Re: Replacing the clutch in a Super 55 in reply to Super 55, 12-29-2004 11:04:23  
When I replaced the clutch on my 550D I z-split the rig. I got my 10" clutch from O'Briens. Good folks to deal with. Fast service, good folks all the way around. Tom is who I worked with. Check your email also for some other notes.

O'Brien County Implement
Highway 18 East
Sheldon, IA 51201
Toll Free 800-320-6224
Local 712-324-4871

ShepFL

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KENT

12-30-2004 05:04:13




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 Re: Replacing the clutch in a Super 55 in reply to Super 55, 12-29-2004 11:04:23  
hey paul---i have some good 10" clutch & pressure plate set ups---also, is your front axle center cast iron or steel?---if it's cast iron, i would replace it with a steel one rather weld a cast iron one---my email is open if you want to contact me---thanks
kent



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J. Schwiebert

12-29-2004 16:49:57




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 Re: Replacing the clutch in a Super 55 in reply to Super 55, 12-29-2004 11:04:23  
I do not know how far you are in removing the enegine, but you should have two set of holes that are drilled and tapped for the two sizes of clutches. Larry is correct in that it makes a big improvement. We probably put the big clutch in the older models 90% of the time. However remember the PTO shaft is splined to the pressure plate (like a Cockshutt 30) and the transmission drive shaft is inside the PTO shaft. Also the disk goes in with the hub to the front unlike the Oliver rowcrop tractors. Also the spline is smaller. The clutch was made by Auburn. Also make sure you double check the height of the release levers. It makes shifting a lot better. Questions?

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Super55

12-29-2004 17:10:45




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 Re: Replacing the clutch in a Super 55 in reply to J. Schwiebert, 12-29-2004 16:49:57  
The engine is out and at the shop. It does have the other set of mounting holes, so no problme there. The engine actually came out pretty easy. just clears the front of the tub. When I put it back in I may Z split, if the leveling bar doesn't work. It is a snug fit to get the engine clear of the clutch shaft and yet stay clear of the front of the tub, especially the grease zert that's on the axle pin. Do I have to get my clutch from AGCO?

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J. Schwiebert

12-29-2004 17:30:49




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 Re: Replacing the clutch in a Super 55 in reply to Super55, 12-29-2004 17:10:45  
No. Next thing. Make real sure that pin in that axle moves if not free it up and lube it while you can get to both sides.



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Super55

12-29-2004 18:37:09




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 Re: Replacing the clutch in a Super 55 in reply to J. Schwiebert, 12-29-2004 17:30:49  
Yeah, I have read on line how tight that pin can be, but mine is easy to tap. I have to check it out tomorrow. I may block up the tub and see if that pin is totally free. I think the axle may have been damaged at one time. It looks to have had some welding done on it. I'll try and post pics.



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RAB

12-29-2004 14:55:32




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 Re: Replacing the clutch in a Super 55 in reply to Super 55, 12-29-2004 11:04:23  
Just wondering if the flywheel bolt pattern is OK for either.
Regards, RAB



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Larry from MD

12-29-2004 15:30:07




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 Re: Replacing the clutch in a Super 55 in reply to RAB, 12-29-2004 14:55:32  
My S55 has the flywheel drilled out for both the large and small clutch.I installed the larger one 30 years ago and it was a big improvement.I belive the larger clutch is the same as used in the S77.



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