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Oliver, Cletrac, Co-op & Cockshutt Tractors Discussion Forum

restoring 1958 550 cockshutt

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Allan-Ont

05-12-2004 19:09:36

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I am in the process of restoring our cockshutt and would like to repower it cause the Hercules gas motor in it is seized and I have tried to no avail to unseize it what other gas motor would fit in this tractor.I would also like to add power steering if I could if it isn't a big job to do it.I was wondering what size of plow it will handle in sandy loam and come clay loam ground, also will it handle a 7' rotary mower or will it be too big for it. I will just be cutting long grass with the mower. thanks for any help

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Dave

05-16-2004 04:40:13

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Re: restoring 1958 550 cockshutt in reply to Allan-Ont, 05-12-2004 19:09:36

A 2300 hercules will bolt up. I have a friend that has a original motor from a 550 completely rebuilt. He would sell it Dave

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Doug-Guelph

05-13-2004 16:33:52

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Re: restoring 1958 550 cockshutt in reply to Allan-Ont, 05-12-2004 19:09:36

I have used a product called sili-Kroil on siezed iron and it seems to work great. Email me for more details or phone 519-821-4323

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Keith Hewer

05-13-2004 08:06:51

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Re: restoring 1958 550 cockshutt in reply to Allan-Ont, 05-12-2004 19:09:36

Allan> There is no way that engine is stuck that bad unless the oil had been drained out of it and then sat. I unseized a Csck 30 that sat ourside for 26 years, and she was seized tight. I got it freed up with not to much trouble, and made a good tractor out of it. Contact me and I'll tell you how it was done. Thnaks Keith We make decals for the Cockshutt tractors as well as some tinware parts.

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Paul Bidgood

05-13-2004 09:58:11

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Re: Re: restoring 1958 550 cockshutt in reply to Keith Hewer, 05-13-2004 08:06:51

what tin parts and decals does Keith Hewer have for Cockshuts. I need some tin and decals for a 540 that I am restoring. Thanks Paul

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ShepFL

05-13-2004 06:01:40

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Re: restoring 1958 550 cockshutt in reply to Allan-Ont, 05-12-2004 19:09:36

This might be "way out there" but if the pan is and crank are removed could you set block into a hyd. press and use that?

Since these presses don't see much constant action I am thinking lots of penetrating oil, set block into a fair sized press and then apply fair amount down pressure to a single piston and let it set like that for say a week, then do the other piston. Keep alternating until it comes free.

Caution though as to much immediate pressure would probably destroy your piston at minimum.

Some of these guys on this forum have "unstuck" some stuff I would have left in the hedge row.

Just thinking out loud. . .

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RAB

05-12-2004 22:55:36

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Re: restoring 1958 550 cockshutt in reply to Allan-Ont, 05-12-2004 19:09:36

Allan-Ont,
How hard have you tried to free it off?
Is it seized on the piston(s)?
Is the crank out of it? Give us a little more info as to the actual state of the engine as we can not be sure if fitting a different engine is best advice.
I have removed pistons with a sledge hammer and still used the parts!
Some engines are in remarkably good condition once freed off. Of course, you may know yours is not, but please tell us just a bit more.
Regards, RAB

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Allan-Ont

05-13-2004 04:24:18

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Re: Re: restoring 1958 550 cockshutt in reply to RAB, 05-12-2004 22:55:36

the pistons are seized hard we have tried removing them with a sledge hammer and they won't budge. we had put diesel fuel in each cylinder adn let it sit for a few days to see if it would free up but it only freed up 2 cylinders and the rest are still seized tight. also this tractor has sat for 30 years most of the time in a shed but for the last 3 yrs it has sat out side but it was covered with a canvas tarp when we took the head off to move the freed cylinders the rest had rusted cylinder walls.

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J. Schwiebert

05-13-2004 12:14:23

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Re: Re: Re: restoring 1958 550 cockshutt in reply to Allan-Ont, 05-13-2004 04:24:18

If the block is not out take it out. The discussion came up at the local tractor club meeting and 2 of the guys swear by a product know as PB blaster. Try it, let the pistons soak, in the mean time get your self a plate made out of 1/2 or thicker steel about 60 thousands smaller than the bore which is 3.750 Lay that over the piston and set the block in a press. Now the press I used for stuff like that was a 17-1/2 ton OTC with the rod that goes between the cylinders. Put about 10-12 ton of pressure on the plate and walk away from it. If it has not moved in about 1/2 hour, scare it. Take about a 6 or 8 pound sledge and hit the rod. It make take a couple of times to do this. Jerry Biro has sleeves for the engine. Questions give a reply. By the way if the bearings rods and mains look good don't throw them away.

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RAB

05-13-2004 09:10:10

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Re: Re: Re: restoring 1958 550 cockshutt in reply to Allan-Ont, 05-13-2004 04:24:18

Souds like it may still be recoverable. Have you tried heating and cooling the parts (without cracking them, of course)?
I finally resort to removing big end shells (or crank) followed by a considerable and increasing amount of force from the sledge onto a piece of end-grain oak cylinder (tightish in the bore) to load the piston close to the bore. All you are looking to do is crack the rust seal. It is then a slow job to increase movement for removal.
The final questions are: is it wet lined (remove the piston and liner?) or should you drill holes in the piston, (or use serious heat) to ease removal, before proceeding further. Before this point you will, of course know whether the crank is oval, whether the other bores are shot etc etc. and so have a good idea of costs to repair this engine. I know the decision is yours, but I do like a challenge and like to keep them original.
Have fun and regards, RAB

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