FL 1850 Update

Needs a good amount of TLC.

Downside
Paint - shot
Sheet metal - fair to poor and not all there
Rubber - LH fair, needs rubber on RH front/rear
RH tie rod cobbed up and busted loose
Waterpump weep hole constant leak
No seat, frame is shot
Fenders rusted through at the base
Busted Freeze plug, constant leak near starter
Valves sound like they need adjusted
Hyd stuck in up position Hyd fluid milky and no filter under seat
Hyd leaks under where seat should be be - suspect reason for milky fluid
CAT 2 lift arm pin holes welded shut
Remotes not mounted in braket
No muffler or exhaust pipe - old pipe shoved in
Mickey Mouse alternator installation
Tach no workee
Start with a screwdriver
Manual shut off at injector pump - busted cable
Been sitting outdoors for a WHILE, removed some bird/squirrel nests
Lots of wiring disconnected

Upside
It starts right up - no knocks that I could find
Moves in all gears - no whine, bump, thump etc.
(mind you, w/ no rubber on RH side it was SLOW)
Oil looks good
Steady 45 psi oil pressure at idle, about 60 psi at full throttle (stationary)
Radiator water looked good - no oil film, bubbles
No welds on frame, block only CAT 2 pin holes
Rims in good shape
Remote Hyd hoses "energize" when engaged
Row crop front end but underslung - funny geometry
Appears to be nothing that some time and elbow grease shouldn't be able to fix/repair

Other information
Near as I can tell is 1969 vintage. S/N 212473-55, model 4852218.

Direct Drive - over & under; how to test with no RH tires? Seems to shift in and out ok, no odd noise(s)

Who can tell me about the chain coupler? drive. Found that to an interesting item to say the least. What to look for?

Odd geometry on front axle set up

Shows 3000 hrs. on tach/hour meter

Looks like cast rear rims

Rears are 15.5x38 on 14" rim
Fronts did not check

Will post pics on FOTKI.COM tomorrow sometime.
I welcome your comments; educate me :)

Good luck, whatever you decide, Larry NE IL

• Orange Blossom Special

The fenders look shot with all that rust, you got leaks at the power steering motor out front, and a broken tie rod?? maybe??

That tractor is very close to a parts donor, if you can get it for $500 or so you might try it, but that thing will need a lot of work to get going again. Problem is that thing has been sitting too long, look at the color of the oil that came out of the hydraulic system, it is yellow, that means there is rust already in the system mixing with the oil and eating up the pump and filters, that is not a good sign, and there may already be serious damage to the system. How do you know???

I bet you $5 there is water in the rear end and that is not good. If water is allowed to sit in the rear end long enough it rusts the gears and collars in the transmission and causes gears to lock up, and that is not easy or cheap to fix. I had that happen to one of my tractors at road speed, and that was no fun coming to a fast stop....

I personally feel like you are going to have way more money invested in saving that one then if you bought one in better condition for a little more money. Dont get me wrong, I love saving fence row tractors, but that one has not only been sitting a while but has be pretty heavly abused.

Tell you what, if you save that one you will know everything there is to know about an 1850 when your done :>)

Let me know if I can help ya bud..... .

• Sheps World

p.s. Does the harmonic balancer wobble when the engine is running? Just curious.