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Oliver, Cletrac, Co-op & Cockshutt Tractors Discussion Forum
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88 rebuild

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paul/fairhaven

02-16-2004 10:44:31




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Need alittle help on my 88 .The injection pump was removed without being mark.(my mistake).Using a old manual I have it stated that the flywheel should be set on FP. Drive coupling timing plate should align with the pointer and gear mark.Next the phasing gear should align with the pointer in the pump timing cover. Had the engine running but very poorly.Tried removing the drive coupler gear and slightly readjusting it slightly.Now it wouldn't lite even if it's brought back to the previous setting. Also noted that cracking the injection lines there does not seem to be a very large amount of fuel squirting out.I would like to say it's the injector pump but it did run. This 88 had sat outside for anumber of years at a neighbors yard untill rescude by me .Ah once again the saying EDUCATION IS NOT CHEAP. Anything that can help me figure this out would greatly be appriciated.

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Joe

02-17-2004 14:28:37




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 Re: 88 rebuild in reply to paul/fairhaven, 02-16-2004 10:44:31  
Low fuel delivery menitoned in your post. If you use the primary pump lever, fuel should flow thru the filter, the pump, the nozzle return and you should hear fuel returning to tank. Assume the throttle is at least 1/2 open. No fuel, no smoke, no start. If it smokes, it should start if the timing is close. It probably will start with the pump 1 full tooth retarded. Retartded makes lots of black exhaust smoke and the engine is sluggish. Haven't tried a full tooth advanced but it might well start that way too. But as the other post indicates, you must be on the #1 compression for it to run at all.

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paul/fairhaven

02-18-2004 10:25:16




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 Re: Re: 88 rebuild in reply to Joe, 02-17-2004 14:28:37  
Thank you for the comments on the 88.After the reassurance that it was timed correct ,removed the brass color screen in the injection pump.Rinse it out with a carb. cleaner and hi press. air.It looked clean but I'm not sure it was because right after that it started .Still needed to give it a shot of either thou.I think the next step is to get a few hi cranking amp. batteries. Have not taken a comp. reading since installing the new pistions and sleeves. Wondering if this is a part of the reason why it is tough to start (RING SEAT PROPRERLY). Thank you for responses.

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Joe

02-19-2004 06:50:59




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 Re: Re: Re: 88 rebuild in reply to paul/fairhaven, 02-18-2004 10:25:16  
If the screen is right below the fuel inlet line, it's for engine oil lubrication and should have no effect on starting. Need good batteries and cables, you bet - cranking speed is everything. The lower radiator hose heater (if you can find one) really helps to take the chill off on cold mornings. The intake manifold heater helps some if you have good batteries.

It's really a shame to use ether if you have new S & P. The top ring land wears bad enough on the 4 ring pistons. Bet it starts good after you get it broke in and new batteries!

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J. Schwiebert.

02-16-2004 12:03:50




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 Re: 88 rebuild in reply to paul/fairhaven, 02-16-2004 10:44:31  
O. K. Your FP mark has to be on number one cylinder compression stroke. Remember this is a four stroke engine it takes two turns of the crankshaft to fire all six cylinders. Make sure are on number one and not number six. The pointer in the injection pump window is to verify that you are on number one also. This pump runs at crankshaft speed. Thre were three different ways of marking this tooth, Since I have not seen your pump I do not know which of the three you have. The marked tooth in the window should be one tooth past the mark or the P. C. line if your pump is so equipped. The easiest is to check so you see the line in the pump window, turn the injection pump till the timiming mark on the drive hub lines up, make sure your engine FP mark is on number one and install pump. Quwstions send me an e-mail address.

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