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Oliver, Cletrac, Co-op & Cockshutt Tractors Discussion Forum
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Oliver 1750 repower?

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Steve

10-09-2003 06:11:31




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I have a 1750 that has the typical extra hole in the 310, I am still debating what engine to put in it. My question is how much horse power can the drivetrain of a 1750 handle, if I do a repower and use an engine with over a 100 hp will I break gears or anything else.




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Steve

10-09-2003 12:04:58




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 Re: Oliver 1750 repower? in reply to Steve, 10-09-2003 06:11:31  
Thanks ShepVA and Ollie for the advice, I wasn't planning on going to far over a 100hp so I guess I will be all right. Could you guys also give me some advice on rear duals. I live in KY so it is pretty hilly, and I am sure I will end up on some big hills. I was wanting to put duals on the back(18.4x34) to make it more steady is this a wise idea. PS Shep VA your website is great.



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Myron KY

10-09-2003 18:13:57




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 Re: Re: Oliver 1750 repower? in reply to Steve, 10-09-2003 12:04:58  
Steve, I'm in KY also and know what you mean about hills. As in, when driving up the hill all you see is sky!!! I had the same apprehension about hills verses row crop tractor. Being used to, low to the ground, utility tractors, I thought setting up that high would be pretty scary. The exact opposite is true. I found my 1850 to very well balanced and stabile. Not to the point of carelessness though. I try to go up and down hills as much as possible and go very slowly and carefully on side hills. Ollie brought up a good point with the tire fluid. I'll also suggest widening the front and rear tires out. As far as duals go, I did see a mowing crew, on I-64 in southern IN, mowing some steep hill sides. They all had duals, ROPS and seat belts. They needed the seat belts to keep from sliding out of the seat. Yes, that steep!!!! What ever you decide, Please be careful and enjoy that 1750 !!!!!

That's my 2¢ anyway.
Myron KY

PS. I know where a set of those dual hubs are if your interested. Local dealer has a 1950T he's parting out with them on it. At least they were the last time I looked.

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Ollie

10-09-2003 13:30:47




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 Re: Re: Oliver 1750 repower? in reply to Steve, 10-09-2003 12:04:58  
You might want to try fluid in the tires, filled just 3/4 full. This actually lowers the center of gravity. I have 18.4x34s on my 1650 and the water and CaCl adds 1,150 lb. per tire.

If that doesn't work for you, then duals are the way to go.

I hope you have, or will have, a ROPS!



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Shep Va

10-09-2003 12:29:49




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 Re: Re: Oliver 1750 repower? in reply to Steve, 10-09-2003 12:04:58  
Yeah, you can put duels on to help on the hill sides. Dont run fluid in the duels, it puts a lot of strain on the axle if you do.

You can get band type duels, they are more popular but can be a real pain if you take them on and off a lot. Oliver did make some hub mount duels with a deep dish rim on the duel tire. You would have to get all the pieces to make this work, there is a special hub that replaces the one on your tractor axle now, a spacer and then the deep dish wheels that bolt up with the 9 bolt pattern. You can probably find all that at a bone yard, but it may be pricy.

I run a set of duels on the G-1355 Moline, but they are planetary style duels since the Moline has outboard planetaries on the wheels you have to have a special rim to fit on for the duel.

Hope this helps,

Glad you like my website, I have some new pictures to put on it, but havent been out of the tractor seat long enough to do it.

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Shep Va

10-09-2003 07:01:25




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 Re: Oliver 1750 repower? in reply to Steve, 10-09-2003 06:11:31  
Kinda depends on what engine you are using for the repower. Some engines have higer tork values than others and that is what I found gets you in trouble quicker.

I have an 1850 Oliver with a 5.9L Cummins engine in it. We set the power to 145HP on the 540 PTO and ran it like that for about a year. As long as the RPM's were up and it was pulling it was fine, let the RPM's down to 1500 or so and lug the engine and the coupler chain would fly apart after a few hours (my grandfather grrrrr ). The Cummins engine has a HUGE amount of tork down low RPM,s and that can distroy a chain. After the chain comes apart three or four times it takes the transmission input shaft with it. Thats not an easy or cheap fix....

I let the power down to 135 on the PTO on the 1850 and have been running it ever since with only one chain failure, corse we are keeping the RPM's up more now too when pulling.

You will find the coupler chain is the weak point in the drive line, if the chain and the input shaft can hold the power the rest of the rear end should be good to go. But I dont think you can hold more than 135Hp on the chain for a long time, at least not with Cummins tork agenst it. Now a Waukesha or Perkins engine my be different and you may be able to hold a little more HP but you will have to play with it and see.

Now if you get a tractor like my 2150 with a trunion mount instead of a coupler chain, now that is a different story. :-)

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Ollie

10-09-2003 08:25:45




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 Re: Re: Oliver 1750 repower? in reply to Shep Va, 10-09-2003 07:01:25  
You may have already thought of this...

The torque capacity of chain coupler can be doubled by increasing it's diameter by just 50%. If the room exists to do so, a "job shop" should be able to make up one for you. Increasing the size of the chain (link thickness, barrel diameter) can further add to torque capacity. If you have an industrial supply shop nearby they can show you off-the-shelf chain used in industrial applications. You would then take the chain to the job shop so they can calculate the exact root diameter and tooth configuration based on the maximum diameter coupler that would fit.

This won't be cheap but you do a lot of them and once they make one for you they duplicate the first one for a lot less $$$.

If "job shop" is a new term to anyone... it's just a machine shop that specializes in quick computerized engineering and small production runs of the actual parts. Most of the cost is usually in the one-time engineering charge. They keep the numerical control programs on file so that months or years later you can just ask them to run one more part and get it pronto.

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Don-WI

10-10-2003 15:09:58




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 Re: Re: Re: Oliver 1750 repower? in reply to Ollie, 10-09-2003 08:25:45  
I actually happen to work at a job shop, and our main manufacture is sprockets and gears, sell to AGCO, MILLER, GRUETT'S, MEYERS etc... We have a big book with all of the diameters in it, we just have to make the blanks, set the machine(ussually takes up 1-3 checker plates for this) and then we can run as many as we want to. I work at Madden Machine, (920) 788-4245. Give us a call and my boss might be able to give a quote, or if you tell us the largest diametor or radius, we can figure the rest out. Donovan from Wisconsin

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Shep Va

10-09-2003 10:16:33




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 Re: Re: Re: Oliver 1750 repower? in reply to Ollie, 10-09-2003 08:25:45  
Yeah, I have thought of a lot of ways to make the chain take more power, or even to eliminate it, but I havent perfected anything I can patent yet.

I looked into putting a trunion on in place of a chain coupler, but I am running into some challenges with that. I have also considered trying to run a chain with center bars instead of a doubler roller, but I havent figured out if that will all work or not either. I had thought of a larger chain, or a different sprocket configeration, but there is limited space in that area to do something like this. I think it would be possible, but right about the time I think I want to try something because a chain has been breaking a lot, it all the sudden quits and doesnt break again for the entire summer. Go figure.

I guess I turned the 1850 down about 10 Hp and got my grandfather off of it and it has been staying togeather real well here lately.

Thanks for the thoughts Ollie.

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Don-WI

10-10-2003 22:20:06




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Oliver 1750 repower? in reply to Shep Va, 10-09-2003 10:16:33  
One thought on the center bar idea... Is it possible to slide on of the sprockets back on the shaft a little more for any needed clearances? While my 1600 is split, I havn't really studied it but I also havn't seen any reason as to why it can't be. Also tried hooking my 1600's axel between my 285 and 1755, and she wouldn't even think about coming apart. I have the u-bolts completely off, and pressed the rusted pins out today at work. I did find out, however, that my 1755 will drag my 285 down the gravel driveway, with the brakes locked and in 1st gear low range, engine off. Gonna get the right tip for my torch tomorrow and get it nice and red hot, and hopefully then it will pop apart with some extra tension on it. Gonna shine everything up and put anti-seize on everything before putting it back together though, so if I ever would want to pull it apart again, I can.
Donovan from Wisconsin

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TW

10-10-2003 23:40:18




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Oliver 1750 repower? in reply to Don-WI, 10-10-2003 22:20:06  
Don, I've got a tip for you on how to pull your front end apart. Get 2 port a powers, weld a block to the bottom of the tube to push against & use the port a powers on top & bottom. You will also need to use a lot of heat & have someone tap{not beat} on the outside of the tube as the person on the port a powers puts even pressure on both units. This is a three person job but you can get it pulled apart in about 3 hrs compared to the DAYS it took me to get my first one apart.

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