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Oliver, Cletrac, Co-op & Cockshutt Tractors Discussion Forum
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Hi Brad Maibach

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Lynn

10-02-2003 18:13:34




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I know how hard you are to get ahold of so I can just tell you on here and hope you see it.

I finally have had some time to put an engine together after the very slow machine shop was finished with what they were doing. Those sleeves fit perfect in the block. The pistons that I ordered are sticking above the deck about .015 thousandths, do I want to have them shaved off to be exactly flush with the top? Also, when I degree the camshaft, where did you recommend that I set it at? I did find that you only sent me 11 rod bolts, which is not a problem because I had to send the rods back to get redone because the machine shop resized them to big. I had .005 thou. clearance on the rod journals. The machinist said that he will just regrind the cap and rod and recut the hole again. It will lower the rod length slightly but wont hurt anything since I have plenty of piston to work with. I got your message on the phone about the rod bolt and appreciate you sending me another one.
Do I need to anneal the copper head gasket before I put it on? If I do then how do you do that, I had another guy tell me this in another post.
I have all of the sleeves cut and the block ground for clearance of the rods, that took quite a bit of grinding. What do I need to plug off the governor hole of the block, when the machine shop bored out the block, a little pinhole appeared through the governor hole through to the sleeve area. Is there a stock plug that goes in there when converting to a diesel? I realize that I need to plug the hole with something to plug off the oil holes anyway. What torque do I need to put my head bolts to? Should I use studs? I know I need to do something different with 20:1 compression. Also, did you want a picture of this counterbalanced crank before I put it in for good or have you seen one before? I guess that if you dont answer my questions then I am sure that Ollie will try even though he doesnt even know what I am building exactly.
Thanks in advance for all of your help Brad in getting me this far, you are a wealth of information when it comes to Olivers.

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Brad

10-02-2003 18:45:47




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 Re: Hi Brad Maibach in reply to Lynn, 10-02-2003 18:13:34  
Hi, Lynn how have you been? Ideally, on any engine you want the piston a certain distance from the head to help something called "quench area". this is the flat part of the piston that comes a certain distance from the flat part of the head. this does a couple of things, the tight tolerence sends the air/fuel mixture through the combustion chamber at a high velocity and helps create power. It also helps pull some of the heat out of the piston on the exhaust stroke when it comes this close to the water cooled head. On your engine I would reccomend about .035 with the head gasket I sold you this means you need the piston sticking out of the block .005 . As far as the head gasket, with the compression you're running, it would'nt be a bad idea to have a stainless steel ring put in the head to help crush the gasket. I would reccomend a .035 diameter (cross section) ring that sticks out of the head .020 . the groove should probably be 4.730 od which means the rings would almost touch. personally, for my own engines I use stainless MIG wire and very,very carefully cut it to length . This is a trial and error od, but MIG wire is cheap. If you do this you should not need to anneal the head gasket. You should put the camshaft in at a 4 degree advance. Head studs would be a good idea with your compression I would find some grade 8 studs with fine threads on top and torque them to grade 8 fine thread specs. There is a oddball plug that goes in the govenor hole. I will send one with the rodbolt. I'll look at a block and try to figure out what pinhole showed up, I've not had that problem. I would like to see a counterbalanced waukesha . Talk to you soon
Brad

P.S. this computer is not at my house, so don't think I'm ignoring the phone.

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Lynn

10-02-2003 19:13:49




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 Re: Re: Hi Brad Maibach in reply to Brad, 10-02-2003 18:45:47  
What do you do with the head bolt that has the oil pressure running through it if you change to studs?



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Brad

10-02-2003 19:33:38




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 Re: Re: Re: Hi Brad Maibach in reply to Lynn, 10-02-2003 19:13:49  
Drill a hole in your valve cover and run an external line from one of the 1/8 pipe plugs in your main galley up to it.



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Lynn

10-03-2003 10:40:02




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Hi Brad Maibach in reply to Brad, 10-02-2003 19:33:38  
When you are using the stainless steel wire, do you overlap the wire or do you try to get it to butt completely together? Would it work to glue the wire onto the top of the head gasket or just lay it on there dry? Also, do you have studs that I could purchase from you and how much would they be if you had them? Thanks



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