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1850 blowing cooling out of rad

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alberta dave

07-06-2003 22:17:06




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Well I have spent the last three days trying to figure out why my 1850 D keeps spitting its glycol out of the rad. I have changed the head gasket twice, the head twice and inspected (visually) the liners for cracks. I know that both of the heads are good based on the fact that the donor engines did not have this problem. Assuming the heads are good and the head gasket is OK where else could I be getting exhaust leaking into the coolent side? Out of curiosity just where should the coolant level on an 1850 D be prior to starting. Other than this annoying problem the tractor runs OK and maintains a normal operating temperature for several hours before I need to shut down and add water. There is no oil in the coolant or water in the oil. What is the cooling system operating pressure on the tractor at 2800 feet?

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Big Jim

07-07-2003 10:52:41




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 Re: 1850 blowing cooling out of rad in reply to alberta dave, 07-06-2003 22:17:06  
I would try some of the other simpler solutions first, like a new radiator cap. I had a Farmall 560 diesel that had the same symptoms you describe. This is also a dry sleeve engine like the Perkins diesel in your 1850. Turned out that one of the sleeves was cracked. We also inspected them visually but couldn't see any cracks. What I finally did, was pull the injectors one by one and blow air into each cylinder with a rubber tip blowgun attachment. On the number 3 cylinder, the radiator would bubble when air was blown. Hope yours is a simplier solution.

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Ollie

07-07-2003 04:15:51




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 Re: 1850 blowing cooling out of rad in reply to alberta dave, 07-06-2003 22:17:06  
Is the engine really overheating? You'll need a known good gauge to tell for sure. The system does not recover coolant so if you overfill it, coolant will be pushed out the vent in dribbles until the coolant has expanded all it is going to. Then when you let it cool, the coolant level will normalize, usually several inches below the radiator neck. This is the proper fill level.

A bad pressure cap and bad coolant/water mix will cause excessive coolant loss in the manner as well. Any radiator shop can pressure test the cooling system and your cap as well. Coolant must always be 50/50 to 70/30 (coolant/water) ratio. This can be tested with a bulb tester.

If you really have combustion gasses in the coolant, it's easy to test. Any radiator shop can sell you a couple of test strips made for this purpose. You dip one in the coolant and a color change is a positive indication of the presence of combustion gasses.

If so, you may have a warped head/torn head gasket which is unmistakable upon inspection. Other possibilities are a craked head and/or block/liner. Magnaflux is the only way to find the crack for sure but first do a cylinder leakdown test to verify the presence of a crack. This requires shop air and some special gauges. Any mechanic can do this for you.

Note that nearly all leaks of this type also cause coolant to flow into the crankcase too. The reason is that when you shut the engine off hot the cooling system remains pressurized for quite a while.

The fact you have no coolant in the oil and it takes several hours for the problem to occur tells me the problem is likely just one of overfilling the radiator.

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J. Schwiebert

07-07-2003 03:46:58




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 Re: 1850 blowing cooling out of rad in reply to alberta dave, 07-06-2003 22:17:06  
A dealer friend of mine traded one in that was that way. There was a crack in the block behind the liner. It is an easy repair. You have the block pressure tested which can be done in the frame and then pull that liner and have a machine shop put in a dry repair liner, put the sleeve back in and you are heady to go.



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alberta dave

07-07-2003 21:21:30




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 Re: Re: 1850 blowing cooling out of rad in reply to J. Schwiebert, 07-07-2003 03:46:58  
Thank you for all of the great tips. I am hoping to limp the old girl for yet another hay season while I am getting a fresh bottom end put into another tractor. I just had my spare rad rebuilt to the tune of $650 bucks so I do not want to use it until the new engine is ready in a few weeks. I have found that after I fill the rad to just above to core I start to get overflow after only 5-10 minutes and it continues to spew for several minutes. I have repaired a large crack in the filler neck base which I could not see until I removed the grill so perhaps I can now achieve a stable operating pressure and temp. I hope to start cutting in 48 hours. If it does not hold I have a line on yet another tractor, this would be my fourth 1850.

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