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Jim, Read my post below regarding the 1755. In your situation, I'd recommend the same, that is dropping the oil pan and replacing the rod bearings and using the new rod bolts from AGCO that are harder than the originals. The 1855s produced prior to model year 1974 did not have the factory oil coolers, which appear on the engine's right side. The early 1855s did not have this and had merely the filter base. In 1974 and later models, the 1855 had the 1955 block which had the oil cooler. The new rod bolts and fresh bearings would be all I would do to this engine and it should last you a lifetime, even if you work it, and you should! You are right to watch the heat gauge though, and don't let it get that hot. Some operating tips for the 310: Change oil every 50 hours and oil and filter every 100. 15W40 is fine for spring, summer, fall, but in winter you might use diesel-rated 10W30. Some have enlarged oil pan to get more oil capacity and this isn't a bad idea, but I'd just change oil every 50 hours and fill it a bit over the full mark. Have radiator serviced if the tractor can't stay cool, because heat and vibration were the two primary enemies of the 310. We're inexpensively taking care of the vibration with the bearings and rod bolts, and the heat with the more frequent oil changes, increased oil fill capacity, and good radiator condition. Do that, and you'll enjoy the 310. If you have to tear it down someday, then there are other things you'll want to do, but we won't dwell on that until it's necessary. There is/was an aftermarket oil cooler made for these, but I don't know if you can still get them through AGCO. Also, change coolant regularly or add SCA's at necessary intervals to prevent electrolysis from corroding the sleeves. Use a diesel-rated coolant.
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