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WFE
05-17-2003 15:30:59
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Re: 1750 dsl rebuild in reply to TW, 05-16-2003 00:59:06
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The 310 in the 1750 was more forgiving than in the higher hp applications like the 1855. That said, however, the same rules of thumb apply for an overhaul. Having block inspected and a line bore done is a good idea, especially when a spun main bearing caused the problem. Have connecting rods inspected as well for misalignment or twist. Regarding rod bolts, and this is important, don't re-use any that have been torqued once. When reassembling the bottom end, if you want to check clearances or Plasti-Gage it, use the old rod bolts. Then, when you are ready for final assembly, use only new, 12 point rod bolts with the supplied washers. Once torqued, do not loosen them. Once they are torqued to 50 ft*lbs, they ought not to be reused. Your old ones should be discarded, and if you're unsure about whether the 12 pts you have are new, err on the side of caution and buy a new set; well worth the money. Since you're getting a crank anyway, have it dynamically balanced along with the rods, pistons, flywheel, and vibration damper by a qualified technician. Shops that build racing engines are qualified to do this work, and it will only run about $200. Use the one-piece wrist pin bushings instead of the two-piece. Have vibration damper inspected too. These are expensive to replace, but are necessary to ensure longevity of the crank. I would use new sleeves/pistons, unless you can be sure that electrolysis has not occurred to corrode the sleeves and make them brittle. In operation, use a coolant charged with corrosion inhibitors and supplemental coolant additives for diesel engines. Sleeve protrusion above block needs to be .004" and these can be shimmed if necessary. This is usually the cause of head gasket failures later, as some 310 blocks could allow the sleeves to settle in the counterbore. Ensure the o-ring surface at the bottom is smooth and meets minimum diameters. If not, you run the risk of getting water in the oil. Disassemble and inspect oil pump as well. When running, make sure oil pressure is up to snuff, 25 psi minimum at operating speed. Will of course be lower at idle when oil is warm. Good rebuild procedures will ensure a successful life of this motor. Regards.
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