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Marc, Having only spent $500 on the tractor, I'd say you can afford to put some money into a motor, and do it right. When properly built, the 310 is capable of amazing power, torque, and longevity. And, it's original Oliver. Here's what I would do, as one of a select few advocates (Dsl too) of rebuilding 310s: -First, find a 1955, late 1855, or 1950-T block that has the oil cooler. This is assuming that the current 1855 block is not repairable and does not have the oil cooler on the right side of engine. Beginning in 1974, the 1855s had the oil cooler, but prior models did not. Many of those have been fitted with an aftermarket type of cooler which is sandwiched between the filter base and the element and has external coolant lines. They work, as I understand, but I don't know if you can get them anymore. -Have block line-bored -Have crankshaft, flywheel, dampener, pistons, rods, etc. all balanced as an assembly. This is done by many racing engine builders. This should definitely be done, as well as having rods inspected for bend or twist. Inspect vibration dampener. It should not have rubber working its way out of the casing. You may be able to see the black rubber, but it should not be shredded or peeling out of the casing. -Use new one-piece wrist pin bushings supplied in overhaul kit. Not included in kit, but necessary to buy, are new connecting rod capscrews. You can get these through AGCO dealers. If you're going to Plastigage the journal clearances, use the old rod capscrews. Then, during final assembly, use the new capscrews and torque only once, 50 ft*lbs. You can recheck them, but don't loosen them and retighten them. -Oil capacity. A couple alternatives here. Use original oil pan and change oil every 50 hours and filters every 100. Alternatively, you can deepen oil pan and enlarge oil capacity to extend change interval to the originally specified 100 hour level. Since oil's cheap, I just change it every 50 with filter changes at 100. -Check sleeve protrusion above block. .004" minimum and shim sleeves to obtain minimum. This is for head gasket retention. Head bolt spec. can also be increased to eliminate potential problems with head gasket failures. A copper gasket sealant can be used as well. -Check the ball check valve in the turbo oil supply line to make sure that it works properly. If the motor has some hours on it, the turbo probably needs rebuilt/replaced. -Once running, verify oil pressure. The pressure regulating spring for the main oil gallery is on the engine's right side toward the front and can be shimmed if necessary. 25 psi minimum with engine warm and rated speed. I would guess the original owner didn't do these things, which is why he put 2 engines in it. New rod bolts are a must, as are verifying rod conditions and reducing vibration. That done, enjoy and regards.
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