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1755-the verdict is in

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Don

12-18-2002 19:33:19




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The shop finally got around to my 1755.... said 2 shafts or rails or something inside are busted, and would be about 1400 in parts alone. Now the decision is weather to have them fix it or bring it back in a box...they don't want it and probly wont take it. Really hate to just send her to the junk yard because she has had a lot of work done and would essentially go to waste. (new 1855 clutch, new brakes, new headlights, etc...) What do you guys think? I need a loader so I can buy some 4x4 squares. also hate to keep on fixing her.

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Wrenchbender

12-19-2002 12:07:05




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 Re: 1755-the verdict is in in reply to Don, 12-18-2002 19:33:19  
Don, $1400 for parts alone sounds way too steep! What's their labor gonna cost? What kind of repair shop is this, brand dealer or independent? The transmission on that tractor has nothing complicated to it. I think you need a second opinion! I'm sure you can find good used parts to repair it with. I wish I was closer to you, I'd work on it and it wouldn't cost you that much! Good Luck, WB.



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Don

12-19-2002 12:58:09




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 Re: Re: 1755-the verdict is in in reply to Wrenchbender, 12-19-2002 12:07:05  
This is the old Oliver now white/ AGCO dealer. From my dad it sounded like that was parts alone, but maybe he heard them wrong or the message got mixed up somehow. Normally the shop is very easy to deal with and the have a nice 2-85 sitting on their lot, as well as 2 2-70's and a 2-105. I agree that 1400 is very steep for the parts, and I don't have a shop where I am able to tackle any projects of any larger size, unless I feel like working outside on the gravel in the elements. We have about a month's worth of hay left yet, so hopefully I can accomplish something by then.
Don

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MikeO

12-19-2002 04:53:19




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 Re: 1755-the verdict is in in reply to Don, 12-18-2002 19:33:19  
If you are the person I have seen in previous posts, we may not be far apart. I am located in central Wisconsin and have a junked rear end with shifter rails etc. What do you exactly need? Please email me.



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D13

12-19-2002 02:20:58




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 Re: 1755-the verdict is in in reply to Don, 12-18-2002 19:33:19  
There's a relatively complete 1755 in Tosch's yard in Capac michigan. I bet you could get the back half and maybe the over/under too for 1400 and just bolt and go. I'm not a trans person (yet) but the I&T looks like this is not too terribly bad to accomplish - did not look like many special tools would be needed. Biggest thing is to block up the front half securely to prevent rolling / falling.

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Wade

12-19-2002 15:58:04




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 Re: Re: 1755-the verdict is in in reply to D13, 12-19-2002 02:20:58  
Wrenchbender, Don,
I may be interested in the over/under and fenders on the 1755 yard tractor if Don is interested in the transmission. I'm looking to take the cab off my Cockshutt 1755 and I can only get the over/under handle to move into one range (middle and over, I think). I am in Findlay, Ohio.



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Hal

12-19-2002 07:59:32




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 Re: Re: 1755-the verdict is in in reply to D13, 12-19-2002 02:20:58  
What would all of you say is the minimum equipment/tools needed to successfully and safely tear into a job like this on these size tractors? Say you have a shop with a nice concrete floor, but no points for overhead lifting. What do you use for lifting/moving things around? Would an engine crane or two do the job, or is a loader tractor, fork lift, or some kind of rollable overhead lifting beam/trolley with a chain hoist needed? Usually it's not the know how that stops us from doing these jobs, but just that some of the stuff is too darn heavy for a 1 or 2 person operation. I have split apart little Fords and stuff, but these heavier tractors can be intimidating. Last year we had to remove the lift cover on a 1655 and that sucker was really stuck on the dowel pins and quite heavy besides, and that's nothing compared to splitting a 1755. Any ideas about what you all use?

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Shep

12-19-2002 08:41:04




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 Re: Re: Re: 1755-the verdict is in in reply to Hal, 12-19-2002 07:59:32  
I picked up an old towmotor forklift at an auction for a few hundred and I use that in the shop for splitting tractors. I build mounts that bolt to the back bolts on the frame below the gas tank and have caster swivel wheels on them for the front half and then hook the back of the tractor with the forklift and roll them in half. This gives the most stablilty to the front. It is very hard to block up the back half of an Oliver because the bottom of the transmission is tapered and nothing will really hold under that, so you almost need something to lift from overhead. You can put big jackstands under the break housing from underneath but you have to be careful and make sure you put blocks under the drawbar to keep it from flipping back.

Actually most of the time you have to take the engine out before splitting an Oliver because you cant get to all the bolts or if you can you cant get them loose while the engine and three speed is still there. So with the engine out you really reduce your weight when you split the front end off. It can be a big job if you dont have the equipment to do it, or havent done one before. I have had my 2150 in half once to replace a seal and that was pretty intimidating even for my equipment. Major thing is to be careful and if you dont feel comfortable doing it, let someone else split the tractor, its not worth getting killed or hurt over.

Just my 2 cents

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Jim T

12-18-2002 20:02:27




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 Re: 1755-the verdict is in in reply to Don, 12-18-2002 19:33:19  
Don, only you can make that decision, but my thinking is 1; You know what has been done to this tractor, one you buy to replace it may be no better or maybe worse 2; will what you can get for your 1755 plus the 1400+ you need to spend on it buy you another compareable or better tractor? DON'T send it to the junk yard as there is always someone willing to fix up a tractor of that caliber. Advertize it here first, boneyard is the last stop. GOOD LUCK Jim T

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WFE

12-18-2002 19:55:52




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 Re: 1755-the verdict is in in reply to Don, 12-18-2002 19:33:19  
$1400!!!!! I would search desperately in salvage yards for the parts that are needed. You can get the part numbers from a parts manual, which can be acquired if you need one from the folks in Charles City at the museum. With part numbers, you can start looking for parts. Try going on www.buyagparts.com and submitting a parts request. The vendors who have the parts you need will then submit bids for your business. Works well. Or go the tried and true method of calling around. Either way, I agree that it's too soon to send this machine to pasture. Sounds like it would make a good winter project. Once you have the parts and the shop manual that Oliver printed, you can do practically anything. Oliver produced highly detailed and thorough shop manuals to walk you through even the most intimidating of tasks. I think you can fix this one yourself with some time and the right resources. Good luck. Reply if you want some more leads.

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tubba_JD420C_ny

12-20-2002 14:52:52




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 Re: Re: 1755-the verdict is in in reply to WFE, 12-18-2002 19:55:52  
WFE is right! I was able to get the undercarriage rebuilt on my JD crawler,and replace a cracked clutch housing pretty reasonably (considering) by going to a couple of salvage yards to get parts. The places I went to specialize in JD's but there are several I have seen that handle Oliver or White. The JD Dealer shop my crawler was in was very good about having me bring in used parts for them to install as opposed to them ordering new ones (nd tying up their shop bay while they wait) . Had I had to go to new parts, I shudder to think what I would have in it now. Of course having a good dealer/shop that you go to helps. The JD dealer I go to even helped me get an used casting for a White that I once had and had in there for three point hitch work. Good luck, just 2 cents from a Oliver fan and former white owner.

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