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WFE
11-28-2002 08:44:22
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Re: 310 final touch LAST CHANCE in reply to gaetan, 11-27-2002 14:14:05
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Oil pressures sound good. To get the hp you are asking for, there are two adjustments you can make to the pump. Now the 1955 pump features bigger plungers than 1755/1855 pump, but adjustments are done the same way. The external screw toward the rear of the pump inclined at a 45 degree angle or so upward with an allen head and retained by a jam nut is the torque screw. Easily adjusted, I think start with this screw turned out approx. 2 turns. Gives you torque backup/lugging power. Then there is the main fuel delivery adjustment screw that is more inaccessible (for a reason I presume) but is very sensitive to minor adjustments. This will give you more fuel at a particular governor setting, and more smoke (lots of smoke if you go too far and then your hp goes down due to reduced combustion efficiency). This screw adjusts the tension of the leaf spring inside the pump and is accessed by removing the top cover of the pump. First close fuel line and drain fuel from pump. You'll see 4 screws retaining this top cover. Once you remove the cover, you won't be able to see this screw very well, but it is an allen head screw that lies down inside the pump about 1-1.5 inches below the surface of the top cover. There will be the governor spring in your way, but you can work around it carefully. The screw should be roughly centered in the opening left by the removal of the top cover and hunt for it with your allen wrench of a smaller size. Once found, remember, a small adjustment gives BIG results, so 1/3 turn clockwise (or tightening) of this screw with your torque screw adjustment should put you in that 130 hp neighborhood. Any more and you don't have enough turbo with the stock 1855 to supply enough air to burn the extra fuel delivered with an increased setting, and hp starts to fall off. 150 hp is about max for the 310 with factory turbo. More rpms=more hp too and I run my 1950-T at 3000 rpms when pulling and set it down to 2700 for farming. This fall, when the big tractor (a Case not an Oliver/White) went down, the 1950-T got put on a chisel plow normally pulled by a 140 hp tractor. Dualed and weighted up, I left my pump settings as described above (which in my T give me just under 150 hp) and reduced max engine rpm setting to keep hp reasonable, as I knew my Dad would also be running it and may not have known when to quit shifting up. Chiseled about 300 acres and engine ran like a champ, pulling chisel 14" deep at 5 mph and up to 6 in lighter soils. My concern wasn't the engine but the transmission/final drive. Not having planetary reduction, I wouldn't want to abuse it too much more than I did this fall at its power level. Question: Crankshaft broke, but no rods? I would think that would have damaged a couple rods at least unless you're just lucky:) Regards and good luck.
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