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Mystery Hydraulic-Electrics on a 77 RC

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Kris Rutko

10-28-2002 19:22:21




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I have a 77 RC with two big switches mounted to the steering column. The switches are rusted fast and there's a wiring harness that goes into the hydraulic box via 6 prong plug. Also there's a cylinder on the drawbar that has some rusty electronic gizmo on the barrel. What is all this stuff? How does it work? Do the I & T books explain it? Can I get parts to make it work again? I would like to restore it to original condition.

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Mike in Ohio

10-29-2002 12:27:39




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 Re: Mystery Hydraulic-Electrics on a 77 RC in reply to Kris Rutko, 10-28-2002 19:22:21  
Hi Kris--
That unit is called a Hydra-Lectric system. It's purpose was to be able to adjust working depth of a drawn implement from the tractor seat without stopping. With the unit turned on (electrically) you could move the hydraulic control lever up or down but slightly in a diagonal direction. This would engage a switch inside the unit which activated the solenoid in the cylinder and created an electromagnetic current to allow the depth stop on the cylinder rod to be moved to the desired position. Hope this helps--Mike.

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Mike in Ohio

10-29-2002 17:11:27




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 Re: Re: Mystery Hydraulic-Electrics on a 77 RC in reply to Mike in Ohio, 10-29-2002 12:27:39  
Kris--
In my earlier post I didn't tell you about the earlier versions of the Hydra-Lectric control. They were made in versions 1, 2,& 3. Yours is either a 1 or a 2. These used the switches on the column. Moving the switch up or down (in the same plane as the steering wheel turns) raises or lowers the implement. Moving the switch forward or rearward actuates the magnetic field in the cylinder head to move the depth stop. Good luck--Mike.

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jld

10-29-2002 08:28:10




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 Re: Mystery Hydraulic-Electrics on a 77 RC in reply to Kris Rutko, 10-28-2002 19:22:21  
I & T is OK (Oliver book is better). You need an operators manual and probably $500 - $1000 to make the Hydra-lectric work depending what all is wrong (sounds ugly if the switches are froze). If you take the lid off the box and use a 6V dry cell to check for solonoid and spool movement you will have a good idea if this project is worth it or if you should visit a salvage yard for a Ver III unit. If stuff in the hyd box is OK, you likely will locate the balance of the parts needed.

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Mike (WA)

10-29-2002 08:23:28




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 Re: Mystery Hydraulic-Electrics on a 77 RC in reply to Kris Rutko, 10-28-2002 19:22:21  
I can tell you what you've got, but not how to fix it. Olivers of that era, and into the '60's, had the "Hydra-lectric" draft control system for drawn implements. When the cylinder on the implement had extra pressure from pulling hard, the electric gizmo on the cylinder sent a signal to the hydraulic lift control, which raised the implement slightly to reduce draft. Ditto when it pulled too easily- signalled the control to drop the implement slightly. I've never seen one that still works, and parts are going to be mighty hard to find.

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Terry

10-31-2002 15:40:23




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 Re: Re: Mystery Hydraulic-Electrics on a 77 RC in reply to Mike (WA), 10-29-2002 08:23:28  
The Hydra-lectric was not a draft control system. It was an easy to operate hydraulic control system. A movement of the level on the column caused the cylinder to extend or retract. you did not have to hold the switch. When the cylinder reached the limit of travel, an internal microswitch in the cylinder interrupted the circuit, the valve was released in the power unit, and the fluid stopped flowing. Moving the switch diagonaly caused a manual operation of the valve. In one direction, this would push the stop collar on the cylinder farther out. In the other direction it caused an electromagnet in the cylinder to be energized to hold the collar and allow it to slide on the cylinder shaft, changing its position. The earliest units used two mechanical arms that engaged the edge of the stop collar rather than the electro-magnet. Most of the troubles with the units resulted from problems with the connecting cables, their connections, and the microswitch at the cylinder. If your control switches are stuck, you may be able to disassemble them and clean them up. For sure you need to get a wiring diagram of the unit to do trouble shooting.

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