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I love those Waukeshas. Can't beat their performance. Merlin covered all the bases and he's right; get out your checkbook. Admittedly, I don't always do all of the above to every 310 I rebuild. Some are more important than others and I do what I can with the money I am willing to spend on each. I would prioritize these tips as follows, in order of decreasing importance. 1. Install new rod bolts and use med. strength loctite that will withstand high temps. Torque these only once! If you have to loosen them or remove them for any reason, use a new one. This is the cheapest one. Also install the new updated one-piece rod bushings in all the rods. 2. Have crank, rods, pistons, flywheel, etc. balanced. This too is relatively cheap (around $150) and will do a great deal for making the motor live. 3. Increase oil capacity. If you don't want to have a modified oil pan to give you greater capacity, then be very religious about changing oil every 50 hours and not one hour more. These engines have a small oil capacity which means the oil that is in them does a lot and requires more frequent changing. Keep an eye on the operating temperature too. The 'T' has the oil cooler so you should be safe unless you're going to pull the guts out of it in Arizona in July day in and day out. Otherwise, you'll be fine. In addition, be diligent about changing the engine coolant. Use one suitable for severe duty diesel engines with the appropriate corrosion/electrolysis inhibitors in it and measure/replenish these additives as necessary. Otherwise, you'll eventually crack the sleeves and you'll get water in the oil. The sleeve seals are also critical. Ensure the sleeve o-ring sealing area in the block is not tapered, out-of-round, or enlarged beyond spec. 4. I sometimes have the blocks line bored; it kind of depends on the nature of the engine failure. If I don't know how it failed, it is a safe course of action to have the block bored but I can usually save this money by using only good blocks. 5. Look at the vibration dampener. If there is oil leaking or the rubber portion is damaged allowing oil to leak out, replace it. I don't generally replace these unless they exhibit one of the above because they are $900 for a new one. 6. Torque rod bolts to 210 ft lbs and the outer 4 to 180 ft lbs for head gasket retention. It also doesn't hurt to use some Permatex High-Tack sparingly on the head gasket to keep it in place if you're going to tune the pump for more than 105 hp. Also check sleeve protrusion above block. Some 310s have a tendency to allow the sleeves to settle, which makes it hard to keep head gaskets in them. There are shims available if you need to shim the sleeve up to gain the proper protrusion above the block. Do these, and that 310 will take plenty of abuse. I have some running at 160 hp and have been for years. Let me say that I am pleased that you have elected to keep the 310 in the 1950-T. It is a good motor and the 1950-T just isn't the same without it. Good luck and have fun. Email me if you have any questions; I'll be happy to help.
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