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1850/ missing problems

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Brian Crow

03-02-2002 06:43:58




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Need some information....I have an 1850 Oliver gas tractor that I have problems with it cutting out after it warms up. I have recently rebuilt the carb. because I couldn't keep my adjustments at a good setting. Now it runs fine when it idles and is cold, but once it warms up, it wants to cut out...when at high R.P.M.s I also noticed that I have 9 volts on my coil wire...could this be related? Also, on the wiring diagram, I have a 2.0 to 2.4 Ohm resistor spliced into the wiring harness that goes into the coil. If I remove this resistor, would it kick my voltage up to 12 volts and possibly solve my problem? The coil is new, but didn't seem to help the problem. Any help will be greatly appreciated! Thanks,
Brian

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Tony

03-02-2002 18:08:18




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 Re: 1850/ missing problems in reply to Brian Crow, 03-02-2002 06:43:58  
The problem might be the spark plugs wires or the distributor points or condensor.



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Bob M

03-02-2002 08:58:32




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 Re: 1850/ missing problems in reply to Brian Crow, 03-02-2002 06:43:58  
Brian - We've had an 1850 gas for 35+ years and have run into similar problems on occasion. Here's what I've learned over the years.

Are you certain the problem is ignition? Could be the carb main metering system is lean - try pulling the choke a bit when it starts cutting out. If this helps either the high speed mixture adjustment is set too lean or there's a fuel flow problem. Make sure the sediment bowl and screen are clean, the fuel pump is working and the fuel shutoff solenoid opens properly. That Waukesha motor wants a LOT of fuel flow at speed - anything that impedes flow will cause trouble!

Presuming however the problem is ignition, here's what to check:

1 - Make certain you have solid copper (not RF supression or "resistor") plug wires.

2 - Make sure points are in good condition and properly adjusted. Also make sure the condenser is good. (If there's any question replace both items). Similarly check the distributor cap for cracks, carbon tracking, etc - replace if at all questionable.

3 - Does the new coil have an internal resistor, i.e. is it a so-called "12 volt" coil? If so, you should bypass the series resistor in the wiring harness so the coil sees full system voltage at the primary. If it's not, leave the resistor in place - bypassing the resistor will cause the coil to too overheat and can cause missfiring (and shorten life of the coil).

4 - You certain you've got the right plugs installed (again NOT resistor-type plugs), and they are clean and properly gapped? My experience is the lousy quality of gas we get today makes the engine particularly sensitive to dirty or worn plugs. If there's any question, simply replace the plugs - you're only looking at $8 or so here!

Hope something here helps. ...Bob M

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