Help: Getting Heat in ROPS Cab of Oliver 1855

Anyway, I have to look at the Model 1955 parts diagram to get the routing for the hoses that go to the heater core in the top of the cab. My parts catalog must be for the earlier models that didn't have this cab, or oil cooler.

The problem is that the coolant line is a parallel line going to the Oil Cooler and heater core,... In other words, the water goes from the pump, into the block and out below the thermostat housing to a "T",...

At the "T" it goes one line to the oil cooler which is not restricted, and the other line goes to the heater core which is 5 ft above the engine. (Has a lot of restriction due to gravity)

So the line going to the oil cooler gets the complete flow (Path of least resistance) and there is next to no flow up to the heater core.

I am thinking of making a new line to the cooler (For winter use only) with a restriction in it (Small hole like 1/4 inch) to restrict the 5/8 flow going there, making it flow better through the heater core.

Another way is to hook them up in series, water flow through the heater core first, returns through the oil cooler, then to the block that way.

This would need a complete set of new lines made, and have to be changed in the spring for summer use, or I would cook myself in the cab. Also no way to control amount of heat except by fan speed.

I would also have to wire open the heat valve open so not to starve the oil cooler when the heat is turned down, but this way, the heat is on full all the time (Not a problem in the winter)

Guess the best way is to find a electric pump that I could hook up to the 5/8 line to help pump the coolant through the hoses up to the heater core. That way it would only be turned on when the heater was on, and would be a one time installation.

Anyone have any better ideas, or comments on what I have for ideas, or where to get such a electric pump???

I thought of that (Air Locked), and put the tractor on a steep hill facing upward, and got all the air out. I even put a glass tube on the return line to see if there is flow, and it is a very poor flow. When I plug the Oil Cooler line, it flows great.

The AGCO dealer (The old mechanic fella there) told me that them heaters didn't work well even when new. But he has plumbed them is series and gave me a diagram sketch he made up that would seem to settle my problem.

He said that they actually work ok when it is down to Freezing,... But when it gets colder than that, (Like the 9 months of winter here -20F) they just don't have the amount of flow.

He also told me that the pipe coming out of the bottom of the thermostat housing, and the return on the top of the thermostat, they are 3/8 inch pipe thread.

The Oil Cooler has 1/2 lines, and no restriction, and the heater core has 5/8 lines. So, there is not enough coolant passing through the 3/8 pipe fittings to feed both the 1/2 and 5/8 hoses.

If I can't find a inline pump, I guess I will put the flow in series (Sort of like in the old fellas diagram) He also told me to put that split insulation on the hoses like they use in house plumbing. Keeps it hot till it reaches the heater core.

I will be doing something one way or another this weekend,...

I have looked at one of them pumps for water in a RV, but it is for cold water. It says that "Not For Use In Hot Water Circut"

So, I think it would fail in this application, and the antifreeze may have some effects on the seals. It is a pricy gamble to take ($65.00 for a pump that may not work too long)

I would like to find where to get a pump designed for this (Pushing Antifreeze) around to heater cores.

If anyone has a place to get one, please post the info.

Thanks. Any more ideas ?????

With the cummins I hooked up on the block side of the thermostat and on the outlet of the water pump getting the full flow of the pump and putting it back into the block, and that warms the heater core up fast. I also installed a set of ball valves in the hoses that go to the cab to cut them off in the summer. You could do that too and have a loop hose with a cut off so in the summer you cut off the heater core and open up the loop hose and allow the coolent to continue flowing. I didnt need the loop because I am not cutting off anything else when I cut off the hoses. It would take some plumbing but it would be the easiest way to switch it. You can do all the plumbing with standard 1/2 inch heater hose and it works good. Just my 2 cents..... Let us know how you come out.

Thanks for the input. I am still planning on putting a inline water pump to force water through the heater core,.. That's if I can find one.

They must make one, but finding one is another matter. Any ideas? I know they make electric water pumps for race car engines, but they are for a big radiator hose and lots of flow.

I am calling around. Was thinking, how they get water to the heaters in the rear of the buses or such. They must have a boost pump somewhere I would think?

Besides, I guess the best way would be to plumb it in series, but the hose going to the heater core is 5/8 and the oil cooler is 3/8,... Lot's of restriction there, limiting the flow and the efficency of the heater core?

Any more ideas ????? ????? ????? ?