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Help from a mechanic!

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Justin

09-19-2001 08:52:50




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I'm trying to rebuild a 1947 Buda 153 engine on a Cockshutt 30. I have aquired a new block. Now what? Get the crank checked? Do I need the main bearing measurements before I can order the rebuild kit? Give me as much advice as you can! Please! And Thanks.




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jackie

05-29-2002 19:31:49




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 Re: Help from a mechanic! in reply to Justin , 09-19-2001 08:52:50  
i have a 1989 ford gran marquis and i have to replace oil pan casket i know the way you should do it is to drop trans and lift engine what i want to know is it possible to just drop pan the 4 or 5 inches that it will drop and feed the new casket under and around the oil pump screen and pull it up that way kind of fishing it around everything i know it's not the right way i just want to know if it can be done

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T.J.

09-20-2001 10:16:44




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 Re: Help from a mechanic! in reply to Justin , 09-19-2001 08:52:50  
First get a service manual for it and study it . Why did you need a new block? A diesel needs much tighter tolerances due to much higher compression and requires a lot of special tools to rebuild and even set up. I am not saying you shouldn't do it but you might be getting ready to spend a lot of money, that is why diesel tractors that run well generally are a lot more expensive to buy, than their gasoline powered counterparts. Did you ever see this tractor run or is this the way you got it how was it maintained? Take a look at the whole picture because you can usually buy a nice runner cheaper than you can rebuild an old worn out one.Transmissions final drives and other parts are not cheap either. T.J.

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Dean

09-19-2001 09:59:23




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 Re: Help from a mechanic! in reply to Justin , 09-19-2001 08:52:50  
Reading between the lines...does "new block" mean you bought a "new" block or did you just buy a different block? That's where it all starts. If it's just a different block it must be magnafluxed to check for cracks. 90% of all bare engine blocks sold are cracked, that's way they are for sale.

If you bought a "short block", that is, a block with all the guts in it, it must be completely disassembled and all the parts carefully checked before you order any rebuild kit. A short block with a twisted crank, bearing journal beaten egg-shaped, etc. is also a boat anchor.

My best advice is to spend whatever time and effort it takes to find a reputable machine shop. There is a bunch of machine work that goes into rebuilding an engine from the block up and if any step is missed or not done correctly, all your money gets you is a very expensive boat anchor. A really first-class machine shop will run you through the steps, explaining everything that needs to be done and offer you some alternatives, based on your intended use and budget.

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