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Oliver 1850 valve cover

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Sam M.

02-20-2001 10:56:17




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I have a leaking gasket on valve cover of Oliver 1850 6 cylinder Perkins engine . Valve cover is pressed steel rather than cast iron . I have a replacement gasket . My question is : are there torque specifications for retightning the bolts on the valve cover once the gasket is replaced and , if so , what are they ? I have looked in the ITT manual and do not see any such specs or , if they are there , I have missed them .

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vern in ne ks

02-21-2001 13:23:21




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 Re: Oliver 1850 valve cover in reply to Sam M. , 02-20-2001 10:56:17  
We bought an 1850 diesel brand new in 1965. The valve cover gasket leaked immediately and came with the stamped steel cover. Oliver Corp. replaced this with a cast iron cover. Still leaked to the day we got rid of it in 2000. The Oliver gasket was rubber, went through a train car load of them trying to keep the engine clean, finally just gave up and let it puke. Several problems contributed to this: (1) the cylinder head did not have a raised lip for the gasket to sit on, which: (2) being the perkins set low in back and high in front, this compounded the problem, (3) the exhaust ports were just to close to the valve cover and its gasket. We had very poor service from the Perkins: Burned oil from day one, 3-4 quarts a day doing average work, Oliver furnished new liners, pistons, rings and all gaskets to rebuild, this was within the first 6 months. Have a total dislike for any part of diesel injection involving C.A.V.. First injection pump went out just after first year, Oliver still replaced it. Went through 5 or 6 more during the 35 years we owned it. A 5.9 Cummins would have made this into a great tractor.I loved the tractor, hated the Perkins.

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roy

02-20-2001 19:30:21




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 Re: Oliver 1850 valve cover in reply to Sam M. , 02-20-2001 10:56:17  
turn over cover and pound down bolt holes.
the holes are caved down so it well hold
the pan up.



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Wrenchbender

02-20-2001 18:32:57




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 Re: Oliver 1850 valve cover in reply to Sam M. , 02-20-2001 10:56:17  
What kind of gasket do you have? Is it cork? If it is I think there is a rubber coated one that is available. The problem with the cork one is the exhaust manifold makes it get hard. This lets it crack and leak, the rubberized is more durable.



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Sam M.

02-21-2001 12:54:45




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 Re: Re: Oliver 1850 valve cover in reply to Wrenchbender, 02-20-2001 18:32:57  
The replacement gasket is rubber . I obtained it from AGCO ( I could not find one anywhere else )so I assume it is the correct one . The one that is on the tractor appears to be cork or a cork composite although I have not removed the valve cover to examine the gasket closely yet . I will probably do that this weekend .



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dave

02-20-2001 15:55:26




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 Re: Oliver 1850 valve cover in reply to Sam M. , 02-20-2001 10:56:17  
Sam: As best I can tell, there are no torque specs for the Perkins valve cover cap screws. The factory shop manual for my Perkins-engined White 2-85 (which is a little newer and has a similar engine and drive train) gives no torque specs for either of two types of valve cover one of which is a casting with perimeter cap screws (like mine) the other looks like it might be pressed stel like yours. Neither one has specs for the torque. I'd just snug it up good and tight by feel but not overdo it. The IT manual is kind of skimpy but it is based on the factory manual. Hope this helps

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Mike M (WA)

02-20-2001 17:51:52




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 Re: Re: Oliver 1850 valve cover in reply to dave, 02-20-2001 15:55:26  
Clean everything up real well, then put a very small bead of RTV (blue silicone sealer) on the mounting surface on the head, then mount the gasket, then a small bead on the upper side of the gasket. When mounting, you get one try- if you move it around, you have to start over with the RTV. Snug the bolts up, but not much beyond "snug"- or you'll deform the stamped valve cover and create leaks. I'ave fought the same situation forever on small block Chevy's, and this is the only method I've found that consistently works.

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Dean

02-21-2001 12:23:09




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 Re: Re: Re: Oliver 1850 valve cover in reply to Mike M (WA), 02-20-2001 17:51:52  
You don't need to use silicone on valve covers gaskets. In fact, I've seen engines destroyed this way.

See>Link

I've>Link used their Fel-Pro valve cover gaskets on both small block and big block Chevys and none of them have ever leaked a drop.



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cooter

02-23-2001 18:21:07




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Oliver 1850 valve cover in reply to Dean, 02-21-2001 12:23:09  
gentlemen, there are differences between different engine manufacturers and different engines.some have a machined valve cover gasket sealing area,some are left as cast(investment casting).some good products to use for valve cover gaskets are:1)red permatex made by loctite.it is made for high temps and is oxygen sensor safe.2)high tack made by permatex/loctite.this works great as a gasket glue provided you follow the instructions.3)i have had good luck with aviation gasket cement also made by permatex/loctite.problem is if you ever need to take it apart it's not easy.the stuff really sticks tight and will seal just about anything.you should never use the cheap blue silicone rtv.you get what you pay for.and it's junk.permatex also makes a blue rtv which is oxygen sensor safe.it is for lower temperature applications though.good for water pumps,etc...you should only put about 1/32 of an inch thick of rtv on a gasket.it should only be used to seal small inperfections in the gasket and cylinder head.wipe off the excess when the bolts are tight.if you use too much rtv(stands for room temperature vulcanizing by the way) you take the risk of it entering your motor and clogging oil passages,return holes,etc.that's why you only use a small amount.also when you change a valve cover gasket make sure the oil return/drain holes are not plugged or dammed up.this can lead to oil pooling in the valve train area and cause excessive leakage.

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B A Star

02-20-2001 19:14:36




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 Re: Re: Re: Oliver 1850 valve cover in reply to Mike M (WA), 02-20-2001 17:51:52  
The problem with the 1850 Dsl engine was that the cylinder head valve cover gasket surface gets very hot. The cast iron cover did not allow the heat to escape. Use the steel cover with the "Viton" gasket. Be sure that you have the end hold downs for the cover. Make sure that your engine has the asbestos with steel insert intake and exhaust gaskets. The problem with the 1850 engine is that it did not have coolant passages around the exhaust ports to cool the surface for the valve cover gasket (later White 85 & 105 engines have coolant around exhaust ports). Of course increased fuel delivery for higher horsepower increases the heat for the valve cover and will greatly shorten the life of the gasket if the tractor is used at increased horsepower for prolonged periods of time. Viton gasket will live at factory fuel delivery specifications.

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