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Oliver, Cletrac, Co-op & Cockshutt Tractors Discussion Forum
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Oliver 1365 Questions

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J Harris

05-21-2008 07:03:43




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Hello. I have the opportunity to trade my Super 55 for a 1365 and have a few questions. First, would a 1955 2wd S55 w/ Power Steering, rear wheel weights, updated hydraulics, updated oil filter base, alternator upgrade, and an independently operated FEL plus $3000 be a fair trade for a 2wd 1365 in a little better cosmetic condition with good rubber, spin-out wheels, aux hydraulics, and a recent engine overhaul? The brakes are weak on the 1365, but the parking break works excellent. I imagine this can be adjusted without any problems.

Both tractors run great and operate great, but the S55 is a little "looser" with a few very minor leaks. I know this is a hard question without full specs and photos, just looking for rough estimates as I'm not sure of the value of either and don't want to get rooked.

My second question is concerning the operation of the 1365. I've searched on this site and others and have figured out the diff lock pedal, but the PTO levers have me confused. There is a lever to the left (sitting on the tractor) that is either in the up (engine) or down (transmission) position. It seems to switch the PTO between 540 rpms and 1000 rpms. Is this correct? From what I can tell, the small lever on top of the trans cover that turns to the right or left engages/disengages the PTO. Is that correct? Are there any "tricks" that I need to know when operating these levers? I will typically be using the 540 setting, so leave the long lever in the engine position and engage/disengage as needed? Is it a "Live" or "Independent" PTO? Any other features I should be aware of on this tractor?

My last question is in regards to the spin-out wheels. What is the best technique on adjusting these rims? I'm assuming you could block up the wheels, loosen the rim locks, and go either forward or reverse to the desired width and lock them back down again. Good technique or bad?

Sorry for all the questions. Any help would be much appreciated. There just isn't much anywhere online about the 1365!

Thanks,
Justin in Indiana

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Stu

05-25-2008 12:44:45




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 Re: Oliver 1365 Questions in reply to J Harris, 05-21-2008 07:03:43  
Not all of the 1365s have a ground driven selection on the pto(small lever on trans). The long lever that lifts up on the left side is the pto clutch. DO NOT DRIVE WITH LEVER UP for extended time. This will wear on the thrust bearing on the crank. This was probably the biggest problem with the 1365. The other problem is with the standard "H" pattern shift with an accellerator pedal, they had a tendancy do be driven hard. I feel that the 1365 is probably the most versatile, reliable, and fuel efficient tractor that was painted meadow green. I would highly suggest the 1365. Hope this helps, Stu.

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J Harris

05-22-2008 05:23:00




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 Re: Oliver 1365 Questions in reply to J Harris, 05-21-2008 07:03:43  
I also received an informative email message from a fellow Oliver YTer that I'm copying here for future references. (The names have been removed to protect the innocent...)

"To answer your question about the spin out rims if they are like ACs and I think they are you move the lock to where you want the rim to stop or remove it and loosen the cam locks on the rails and start the tractor and hold the opposite brake and by going either forward or reverse the tractor will spin the wheel in or out .NO jacking it up to move them just tractor power IF you can get the cam lock bolts to loosen as some havent been loose for years .The best way is to try to loosen the ones on top and then move the tractor to bring the others up and take some of the weight off them to get them loose.Good Luck"

Thank you for that information! Now I've just got to work out the details on the trade and get my wife's permission to spend a little money!! : )

Justin

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meadowgreen

05-21-2008 19:09:15




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 Re: Oliver 1365 Questions in reply to J Harris, 05-21-2008 07:03:43  
One thing on the PTO. If not using it for any length of time, disengage the short lever on top of the trans and leave the long lever engaged. Saves throwout bearing on pto clutch.



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J Harris

05-22-2008 05:19:04




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 Re: Oliver 1365 Questions in reply to meadowgreen, 05-21-2008 19:09:15  
Thanks, Meadowgreen! Yes, I did some more searching and figured out that the lever on the transmission should have 3 positions - Engine (Independent), Neutral, and Transmission (clutch-dependent), and that the long lever is actually a PTO clutch to be used as described.

The question now is this. To move the lever from Engine, Neutral, or Transmission, should you engage the PTO Clutch (long lever) and then disengage when in the position desired? That seems the most logical way to operate it (much like a manual transmission), but wasn't for sure.

Justin

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prospector

05-26-2008 21:45:46




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 Re: Oliver 1365 Questions in reply to J Harris, 05-22-2008 05:19:04  
Keep the PTO clutch engaged at all times when the engine is running, except when you want to shift the PTO lever. Then disengage the PTO clutch, shift the PTO lever, and engage the PTO clutch.



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Mike (WA)

05-21-2008 12:49:34




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 Re: Oliver 1365 Questions in reply to J Harris, 05-21-2008 07:03:43  
The 1365 is probably twice the tractor that the Super 55 is, but I wouldn't think its worth the boot you're paying. The S55 as equipped would probably bring $3,000 or thereabouts, and the 1365 without a loader would be around $4,500 (or less- I let a nice one get away at a consignment auction for $2,500, and I'm still kicking myself). Course if its a dealer, he's gotta get his profit, so I guess that would be a decent deal.

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J Harris

05-21-2008 13:22:47




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 Re: Oliver 1365 Questions in reply to Mike (WA), 05-21-2008 12:49:34  
Thanks for the response, Mike. You hit the nail on the head on my tractor's value. They are offering me $3,250 trade-in, which I thought was respectable for mine. I do think they are a bit high on the 1365, but not totally unreasonable considering the prices on TractorHouse and the fact it is from a dealer. The paint is original and pretty decent except the tranny, which has been repainted. The rear rubber is matching and probably 80% or better. Front rubber is mismatched with one looking around 90% and the other worn but usable.

I may try to work with them and see if they have any wiggle room on the price. I keep looking at it this way. If I do the work needed to get mine up to snuff (new tires and probably some minor valve work), I've invested half of the asking difference into a 53 year old tractor that will continue to require work. If I bite the bullet, I get a tractor that is 20 years newer and should require much less maintenance (diesel vs gas) and shouldn't need anything to keep it rolling for a while.

Decisions, decisions! Well, at least it's the right shade of green. ;)

Justin

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