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My 1st 1550 brake job: need tips, sources, need assesssment

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DennisT

02-29-2008 18:50:01

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I've had my 1550 diesel for a year-and-a-half now. 3800 hours; nice shape; does not appear to have ever been mis-treated, however, service (other than fluid changes), was probably as needed and not always to keep everything up-to-new spec. When I got it the brakes worked, but required a lot of pedal travel, (adjustable probably). One side holds better than the other; Takes a lot of pedal pressure to make them work. I now have the battery boxes and batteries out of the tractor, (putting in new bat. boxes), and noticed how much easier it would be now to access brake assemblies there against the transmission case. I am not sure this tractor ever had the brakes replaced. I'm tempted to order what parts it would take to, "renew," the brake disks, etc., pull the cast covers and rebuild whatever is in there. I have the Floyd service and parts manuals. The brake system reminds me a lot of an old John Deere Model D clutch. I see two replaceable brake disks and if I got two pairs of those do I TYPICALLY need anything more than a cover gasket?? I think I recall Ag Parts First would sell these and I've had good luck with them before. A thorough cleaning would also likely make a big difference.

Beyond this, is there anything else you fellows can suggest? Or, the best source for brake parts?

Thank you, Dennis, Odessa/Ritzville, WA state

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DennisT

03-01-2008 17:23:43

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Re: My 1st 1550 brake job: partly disassembled, one pin .... in reply to DennisT, 02-29-2008 18:50:01

Pulled one side. I could not get the big lever pivot pin out of the actuating lever. The pin moves with the lever so I wonder if it"s rusted in place. I notice in the manual, that pin has the center turned to a smaller diameter suggesting that is how it is held from moving out of the lever itself. I just can"t see what really locks it in.

?? What am I missing?

It was easy to pull guts out of the brake houseing anyway, and it was very dry except for a very, very old thin film of lube along the splines of the main shaft. A little debris in the bottom of the housing...probably a tablespoon full. Surface rust on a couple parts, nothing to speak of. Brake housing cover had NO gasket. (Normal?...not like it"s a wet chamber I guess) Actuator assembly is now in my basement where I can take my time getting it apart. I have no idea how strong those three springs are, but they look almost new. Brake non-metalic disks are still almost a half inch thick and all surfaces where friction contact takes place are brightly polished with no signs of hairline cracks, etc. No sign of oil on friction disks. All in all, this side of the tractor looks pretty good. With only a slight film of old lube on the spline shaft, I don"t think I"ll do anything with the oil seal.

Dennis

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rrlund

03-02-2008 08:39:49

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Re: My 1st 1550 brake job: partly disassembled, one pin .... in reply to DennisT, 03-01-2008 17:23:43

I'm not getting my mind around that first question? You have the actuator out on the bench? What is it you're trying to get apart now? You just unhook those 3 springs to get the actuator apart to get to the balls. Those spiring should be a bear to get hooked back up,that's how tight they need to be. A good pair of needle nosed vise grips is usually what you need to get a good enough grip on them to stretch them back on.

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DennisT

03-02-2008 08:57:35

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Re: My 1st 1550 brake job: partly disassembled, answer..... in reply to rrlund, 03-02-2008 08:39:49

I had trouble phrasing those questions. The part names I used are straight from the Oliver manual. The question you are referring to, I think, relates to parts >outside< of the brake housing. The lever I was talking about is the cast arm mounted to ears on the lower outside front of the housing..the one the pedal rods move up and down. A big pin holds that arm to the brake housing. Through the arm is the adjustable threaded rod that governs brake adjustment. I guess I don't need to get it off at all now as I found I can remove all the brake parts from within the housing anyway. But that big pin does seem to be stuck to the arm itself...inside the two ears where it pivots. There are no cotter pins holding the pin in and I am not sure how they hold it from sliding out. That part is not a big deal right now.

However, your comment on the actuator springs is interesting as I still have that assembly sitting on the bench in the basement and I too was wondering how the devil to get those springs back on. One thing I do NOT own is a pair of needle nose vice grips. Stiff springs are not fun. From what you all say, though, I think I better clean up those steel balls, etc., in spite of how hard it might be to reassemble.

Dennis

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DennisT

03-01-2008 10:39:34

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Re: My 1st 1550 brake job: OK-sounds like....... in reply to DennisT, 02-29-2008 18:50:01

OK. Sounds like pulling this all apart and cleaning is the minimum I should do for responsible maintenance. Thanks for the comments on the seal, although it sounds like I will NOT look forward to doing that, (if it needs it). If everything should turn out to be dry, I won't worry about the seal.

Going to try to pull one side today; leave the other side for example of how it goes back together, (same way I do car brakes).

Thanks again,
Dennis

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MCL

03-01-2008 09:57:39

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Re: My 1st 1550 brake job: need tips, sources, need asses... in reply to DennisT, 02-29-2008 18:50:01

Mine were not working well either. I changed wheels so I checked out the brakes while they were off. The disks were good, just oily and dirty. Cleaned everything and replaced the seals. Readjusted them and now they work great.

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Mike (WA)

03-01-2008 08:29:08

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Re: My 1st 1550 brake job: need tips, sources, need asses... in reply to DennisT, 02-29-2008 18:50:01

Just cleaning everything up could make a world of difference- the grooves the balls travel in get crudded up with brake dust, etc. I'd clean it up before even messing with adjustments. Also, if there's any oil in evidence, may need to replace the seal. When I took mine apart, one side was packed full of oil and brake dust mix, which had hardened. Took awhile to get it cleaned up.

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djm75

03-01-2008 03:49:55

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Re: My 1st 1550 brake job: need tips, sources, need assesssm in reply to DennisT, 02-29-2008 18:50:01

for parts I would go to agpartsfirst.com Jerry should have what you need and has the best prices too.

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Tom Ia

03-01-2008 03:11:43

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Re: My 1st 1550 brake job: need tips, sources, need asses... in reply to DennisT, 02-29-2008 18:50:01

I would take the cast covers off and see if there are any shims between the cover and the housing. If there are shims there take one at a time out and bolt it back together and try the brakes. One shim will take alot of free travel out. If this works take it back apart and blow all the brake dust and dirt out with an air compressor. Be careful, it will probably be full of brake dust and dirt. If, after you have it back together, and the brakes don't release like they should you will need the springs that hold the actuators together. They are probably streched out from the brakes not being adjusted correctly. If you replace the springs, clean the balls and the ramps that the balls run up and down but do not oil the balls. This would collect the brake dust and make matters worse. After you have one side apart it will be pretty self explanitory. As you have found out it is much easier to do with the batter boxes off.

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DennisT

03-01-2008 07:59:48

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Re: My 1st 1550 brake job: need tips, Tom + in reply to Tom Ia, 03-01-2008 03:11:43

Thanks Tom, and everyone. Tom, your reply intreques me because I've seen a lot of things improved greatly just from thorough cleaning, (and sometimes lubrication). We live in very, very dust wheatlands. (So I guess I should leave things dry inside the brake housing) Where this tractor, "lived," before was several miles from here and not so dusty and it was not used in wheat production, (was irrigation). Still, being 40 years old if it has never had the brakes serviced, or disassembled and cleaned, it probably will benefit from just about any attention.

Couple more questions: 1. If I find no shims does that typically mean the brakes have been worked on before, shims removed and I have an immediate indication that substantial wear has already occured?

2. Did all 1550's leave the factory with shims?

Thanks again, Dennis, Odessa/Ritzville, WA

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rrlund

03-01-2008 08:39:49

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Re: My 1st 1550 brake job: need tips, Tom + in reply to DennisT, 03-01-2008 07:59:48

None of my 50 series have shims. I don't know i the 55 series had them or if it started with the Whites. A couple of things I'd ad,lube those balls with powdered graphite. If there's any grease in there at all when you take them apart,change the seals. They're a b!tch to get out. About all you can do is distort them with a chisel until they come out. Be careful putting the back in. The pinion shaft tapers and you have to be careful not to roll the lip back on the seal.Don't underestimate how important it is that those actuator springs are good and tight,but what usually happens when they are bad is that they won't release right. Because there aren't any shims (or gaskets for that matter) the double nut that you have to take off to get the actuator out is the adjustment.

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02-29-2008 19:00:11

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Re: My 1st 1550 brake job: need tips, sources, need asses... in reply to DennisT, 02-29-2008 18:50:01

Consider replacing the actuator steel balls and springs too. I like to clean & polish the actuator surfaces also.

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