550 crankshaft

Now the question remains: Anybody looking for a 550 crankshaft? We're gonna sell one of them, just not sure if it'll be the new one or the original yet. We'll probably sell the old one still needing work done to it so we can't be held liable for it and stick the new one in.

My brother's gonna call the engine shop we use and see how much to have them grind the old crank, probably .020 on the rods and .010 on the mains, if the mains even need to get ground at all.

Donovan from Wisconsin

Donovan from Wisconsin

New std bearings and old crank may be your best solution. But don't guess - measure

Peter

The others I checked with a micrometer, which is way more accurate than plastigage and they are only 1 thou smaller (0.001") than the rod and main journals on the new crankshaft that came with the tractor. The rod bearings were replaced while it had an in-frame overhaul, but the main bearings were not replaced and show some wear.

I'm guessing that the shop that had it only thought that it was runnning low on oil pressure, because they're used to working on big diesel engines that have higher pressure.

When we went to pick it up, it had the pan off and the #1 rod journal off, so it wasn't about to fire up and drive onto the trailer.

Donovan from Wisconsin

My suggestion was to measure the fit between the old bearings and crank journals with plastigauge to determine if this is the source of your low engine oil pressure or not. Its a hour in the shop to know if your going to fix it with the machine shop work and new bearings or not. It would also answer your question as to use the reworked crank or not which was your original question.

Your oil pump could be the real culprit and you wont know that until you try to fire up the new rebuilt engine if you don't check now. The low oil pressure is just a fingerprint of a problem.