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8N 3 point hitch

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Greg

10-12-1999 10:50:43




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I just bought a 1950 8N and finally got it running after it sat for about 7 years. I am a big collector of Gravely and older John Deere tractors, so I'm new to the Ford thing.

My first question is: Where is a good place to get a top link for the 3 point hitch so I can hook up to my rear blade. When I say "top link" (am I using the right term?), I mean the piece that connects the implement to the top point on the tractor where draft is sensed. My tractor is missing the "top link" and I would like to buy ne. And what does one look like? My manuals don't really show a good picture that allows me to really make out what it is. All of my pictures make it look like two lengths of about 1/4" thick steel that are about 24" long and about 3" wide. They look like they are joined to one another with several bolts and there appears to be some type of spacers used where the pins are located at both ends. Is this what the top link basically is?

And second, I have noticed on my dipstick for the tranny that the tranny is over filled with oil. Could that affect the operation of the hydraulics? I don't think they are functioning correctly. When I place the depth control all the way down with the clutch depressed, the arms drop. But as soon as I let out on the clutch, the arms raise back up with the depth control still in the down position.

I haven't had a chance to really trouble shoot the hydraulics yet. Just thought I'd ask you veteran Ford owners for your advice before I got too far into things.

Thanks in advance for your help. By the way, the Ford started right up and runs like a champ! I love it!

Greg

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Mark

10-13-1999 11:08:20




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 Re: 8N 3 point hitch in reply to Greg, 10-12-1999 10:50:43  
I'd go with a newer cylinder type. You can adjust it to use different types of tools.I got one at a New Holland dealer for about $75.



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Dennis N Tx.

10-12-1999 14:20:07




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 Re: 8N 3 point hitch in reply to Greg, 10-12-1999 10:50:43  
It shouldn't be difficult to find an adjustable top link from anyone who sells tractor stuff (new and used). Be sure to inspect the welds and get a quality one....I'm speaking from experience. Several years ago my dad bought a new tractor made overseas and we used it for installing septic systems. I was box blading the field line area with the scarifers down and picked up the box blade to run back to the dirt pile, when all h.e. double l broke loose. I'm sitting, tractor stopped, I'm soaking wet, rear wheels sitting on the rims. The top link's weld broke and the scarifers ripped open both (very new) rear tires. Ouch! My dad wasn't a happy camper. He and I never used the outside scarifers at all anymore. So, to make a long story short, get a good top link.

After 7 years of sitting I would go ahead and drain the gear oil (and engine). You might find water to be in the gear oil, this will cause problems with the lift without a doubt. Refill with 5 gallons of 90wt. (everyone has differing preferences). Be sure you have a boot on the gear shift...3 dollars.

Welcome to the joy of having an "N".

Dennis N Tx.
8N48II82

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Bill OH

10-12-1999 11:18:24




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 Re: 8N 3 point hitch in reply to Greg, 10-12-1999 10:50:43  
Greg, I got a screw adjustable top link for my 9N (similar tractor to your 8N) at a nearby Quality Farm and Fleet store. The type of top link you refer to (I have one of these also) is what I think is the original type of top link from the 40's/50's. In some applications it may be useful but I find I'm always adjusting the thing to get the implement working just right so the old type would be a pain for me.

I'll leave the hydraulics questions to others more knowledgable in such matters. I've never had to mess with mine other than change the oil. You may have water in it, if I leave mine set out (most of the time since it is hooked to a manure spreader) water gets in the system and shows over full, although if it gets too full it runs out past the bad axle seal on one side! One more thing to do someday.

Good luck! There is a wealth of info here.

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