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2N Clutch

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Tim in Eagle, W

09-27-1999 14:30:43

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Help!
Painted/Semi-Restored a 1947 2N. Got it all back together got it running. Previous owner had it sitting for 2 years. Went to put it into gear and couldn't. Appears that the clutch is frozen/seized.
My question - shy of separating the tractor is there any way to get it into gear and operable? Very frustrated. Wanted to plow yard this fall.

Any info would be appreciated.

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Jerry

09-27-1999 15:29:20

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Re: 2N Clutch in reply to Tim in Eagle, WI, 09-27-1999 14:30:43

My method of freeing up stuck clutch plates is to jack up a back wheel, start engine with tractor in gear, give it about half throttle, and while holding clutch pedal down, have a helper drop the jack instantly. If it doesn't break loose, be prepared to turn off the ignition or bump out of gear. This works equally well for me on tractors or cars and trucks with standard transmissions. I personally have not ever had to break one into just to free up a stuck clutch.

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David (La)

09-27-1999 14:40:35

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Re: 2N Clutch in reply to Tim in Eagle, WI, 09-27-1999 14:30:43

ZANE is the man you need to talk to. Search the archives for stuck clutch or ZANE and look for clutches.

He said I believe to clear the kids and wife out of the way and point the tractor toward clear spaces, crank in 1st gear then try and shift to 4th gear, while holding the clutch down slam on both brakes, well you probably can't do that ( not enough feet) slam on the one brake the one that stops the best. This should break the stuck plates loose, when done put a block under the clutch petal to hold the clutch open.

I probably got that wrong, you might want to wait on ZANE to better explain it.

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ZANE

09-27-1999 18:39:57

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Re: Re: 2N Clutch in reply to David (La), 09-27-1999 14:40:35

Hey! I like Jerry's idea of jacking up one wheel and droping it fast and be pointing to the plowed field if it don't work. The way you described my remedy is pretty close to correct and it works too.
If you are afraid to leave the clutch blocked down because it might roll then block the wheels or set the brakes.

I don't believe the thing about spings loosing their strength from being tied down under pressure.If that were true your car would eventuall be dragging the ground.Spring steel has a good memory and as long as the spring is not pushed past its maximum bending or flexing point it will remember where to go back to indefinately. This is unless it breaks from fatigue or rusts or is overheated and the metalergy is changed.

Another one those opinions!This one is mine.

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Jim(UT)

09-27-1999 16:30:09

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Re: Re: 2N Clutch in reply to David (La), 09-27-1999 14:40:35

OK, I have a stupid question ('cause I'm stupid) about blocking the clutch pedal. I've read this advice here before and always thought it meant putting something heavy on the pedal to keep it released. I haven't wanted to do that because then the tractor could roll if bumped. Are you saying the block should be placed UNDER the pedal? If so, how does that help keep the clutch plates from sticking together. I'm sure it would make sense if I had ever had a clutch apart, but I need more explanation.

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Jerry

09-27-1999 16:43:30

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Re: Re: Re: 2N Clutch in reply to Jim(UT), 09-27-1999 16:30:09

No, the recommendation is to put the block on the top of the pedal to hold it down, thereby releasing all pressure on the clutch center plate. Personally I don't recommend this. Use it only as a last resort for habitually sticking clutches. By compressing the clutch, you are compressing the springs inside the pressure plate, thereby weakening their pressure over the long term, and this can lead to a slipping clutch, and premature replacement.

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