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3pt. hitch lifting

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LC (IN)

09-19-1999 22:47:42

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It seems that the lift arms on my 8N don't raise high enough. In the lowest position they almost touch the ground which I find most unneccesary. I need them to lift my impliments higher. Can I remove the end caps that hold the lift arms on and rotate them a couple of nothches on the spline to make the top of their travel higher, and not go so low on the down side? Incidentally I too have a problem with the draft/position control lever. In the down position the control lever dosen't operate the 3pt. lift. Might this be part of my trouble with the lift arms not going high enough? Thanks, LC (IN)

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EricG.NH

09-20-1999 05:45:00

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Re: 3pt. hitch lifting in reply to LC (IN), 09-19-1999 22:47:42

No you can't rotate the arms and you wouldn't want to. They're keyed. One spline is fatter. You need to go through the lift cover adjustments and adjust/fix any problems.
Eric

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ZANE

09-20-1999 18:51:16

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Re: Re: 3pt. hitch lifting in reply to EricG.NH, 09-20-1999 05:45:00

Now is definately the time to replace the cam follower pin. That much wear does make a lot of difference in how the lift works and when it starts to lift according to where the lift control is positioned.
I would defininately obain the correct part to replace it with.Don't go with a cut off bolt etc. as it will wear down too quick.If you are going to consider using a bolt etc you may as well leave the old pin in place because with it worn half way into it out last a bolt etc.
I shouldn't tell you this ,but I have used and ole valve stem by grinding off a piece of proper length.The repalcement is a hardened pin and it has to be hard to prevent rapid wear.Their is no lubrication to the pin. If you foolishly decide to use a valve stem it should be measured with a micrometer to assure the right diameter.If it is a couple of thousands too smalll it may fall out and if it is too large you will ruin the hole it goes in,then the right pin will fall out. Be sure and support the linkage as close to the pin hole as possible while driving the pin in or out.You can do this by holding a long heavy flat ended bar by the pin as it is driven out with a punch of correct diameter. Usually takes two people to do it. One to hammer and one to cuss. Added on Date: 05:50:33 2/14/99

Name: ZANE
E-Mail: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Ford 600- Lifting
Body of Message: There is a cam attached to the rocker shaft that is inside the lift housing.This is what the outside lift arms are attached to.The ram rod for the lift cylender's rear end is attached to the lever cast beside the cam.There is a cam follower that is pressed into the control linkage.It is a pin of approx. 5/16" diameter and one inch long.There is no lubrication at this point in the lift and the pin wears out causing the gradual lose of adjustment travel.The pin must be replaced and the linkage re adjusted as per specifications which I don't know off the top of my head and which usually takes a feeler type gauge to measure between the control valve head and the cylender housing where the control valve goes into the spool in the housing. Now is definately the time to replace the cam follower pin. That much wear does make a lot of difference in how the lift works and when it starts to lift according to where the lift control is positioned.
I would defininately obain the correct part to replace it with.Don't go with a cut off bolt etc. as it will wear down too quick.If you are going to consider using a bolt etc you may as well leave the old pin in place because with it worn half way into it out last a bolt etc.
I shouldn't tell you this ,but I have used and ole valve stem by grinding off a piece of proper length.The repalcement is a hardened pin and it has to be hard to prevent rapid wear.Their is no lubrication to the pin. If you foolishly decide to use a valve stem it should be measured with a micrometer to assure the right diameter.If it is a couple of thousands too smalll it may fall out and if it is too large you will ruin the hole it goes in,then the right pin will fall out. Be sure and support the linkage as close to the pin hole as possible while driving the pin in or out.You can do this by holding a long heavy flat ended bar by the pin as it is driven out with a punch of correct diameter. Usually takes two people to do it. One to hammer and one to cuss.

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ZANE

09-20-1999 18:57:09

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Re: Re: Re: 3pt. hitch lifting in reply to ZANE, 09-20-1999 18:51:16

I didn't mean to post that part about the later model tractor adjustment stuff. I slipped up and copied the wrong cam follower file I have and posted it before I read it. Sorry!

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LC (IN)

09-20-1999 08:13:51

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Re: Re: 3pt. hitch lifting in reply to EricG.NH, 09-20-1999 05:45:00

Thanks, thats what I wanted to know. I guess now I'll have to read the manual again and correct any adjustments. Any suggestions on simple first things to do or check? Thanks again, LC

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EricG.NH

09-20-1999 11:46:53

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Re: Re: Re: 3pt. hitch lifting in reply to LC (IN), 09-20-1999 08:13:51

Yup! Check the first two adjustments, which you can do without removing the lift cover. One is for the main control spring and the other is for the quadrant adjust which is done by openning up the inspection cover and watching/feeling the position of the control valve. You can also try fudging it by experimenting with the position of the quadrant. Mark the location of the plate, loosen the four bolts and move the plate a smidge one way, tighten, try the lift. And/or move the plate a smidge the other way... You get the idea!.
Eric

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