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2N Engine Rebuilding Rear axle

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Bob Mc

02-19-2000 16:48:43




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How difficult is it to rebuild the engine. I have worked on cars for years but never rebuilt an engine. It seems like the Ford straight 4 clcy should not be to difficult if one is mechanical inclined. Also, how difficult is it to replace the rear axle seals?




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ZANE

02-20-2000 06:06:33




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 Re: 2N Engine Rebuilding Rear axle in reply to Bob Mc, 02-19-2000 16:48:43  
If you have no experiance in engines you should get a good N engine rebuild manual before you even start. I think you might be able to get one from the sponsor's of this site.

The hub must be removed to replace the outer axle seal and the inner is inside the axle housing.Both are fairly straght forward and not complicated. If it is one of the older 8Ns it will not have an inner seal and this can make it hard to stop it from leaking.Especially if the axle hub is loose and will not tighten.

You can fix it with my procedure if nothing else worksIf the hub is not extremely tight so that you have to have a puller to get it off I think you can replace the seal yourself. If the hub is tight that is a good sign you might get it to stop leaking.The problem with the 48 8N is that it does not have an inner seal like the 51 and 52 do. If the hub is loose on the axle and it can't be tightened because of the spline being worn too much to allow any more tightening then you will not be able to stop the leak the conventional way unless you replace the axle and hub. I hope that is not the case.

If the axle is worn too much to allow it to be tightened then you might consider my fix for the leak and leave the hub loose a few more years. To fix the leak my unconventional way you pull the axle away from the axle housing about 6 or 8 inches and wrap the axle for about 6 inches from the outer end of the axle that is exposed with teflon tape.Wipe all the oil from the housing and then take a caulking tube full of silicone glue and pump it into the void between the axle and the housing. Keep the hub as close to the housing as you can till you get the silicone pumped in.Use the whole tube and then replace the axle into the housing and replace the bolts etc. Let the silicone cure overnight and then you can go about using the tractor. Be sure that the oil in the rearend etc is not over full as this will contribute to the axle leaking.

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Vic

02-20-2000 08:25:21




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 Re: Re: 2N Engine Rebuilding Rear axle in reply to ZANE, 02-20-2000 06:06:33  
To that, I'd add the usefulness of buying an engine rebuild video as a supplement to (not a replacement for!) engine manuals. They give you a lot of pointers, and show you how to do some of the things documented in the manuals.

I don't totally agree with some of the "this moving part looks good enough, so let's not replace it" philosophy of the tape; if I had an engine ripped apart, I'd replace everything that moves. The tape's production values are pretty bad too, but it's still a valuable tool and well worth the money.

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Bob Mc

02-20-2000 13:09:17




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 Re: Re: Re: 2N Engine Rebuilding Rear axle in reply to Vic, 02-20-2000 08:25:21  
Thanks for the advice guys. The rear axle housing is leaking were the housing bolts to the main assemble. Seals ned to be replace plus someone over filled. Thanks for the advice on the engine rebuild. I agree, if a part is questionable replace the part. I would not even attempt to rebuild without a manaul. If I were to rebuild, I was planning on getting the manual and the video. I have worked on car engines for years but never torn an engine down. I don't want to get in over my head on the engine yet I want to rebuild alls areas of the tractor once and for all sense I need to repair several leaks, replace the raditor, remove rust, etc. Are there any other options - like someone on West coast to take the engine for rebuilding , etc.????

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