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Here's the checks. Hook your voltmeter to the primary terminal on top of the coil (and ground, naturally). Remove all the coil wires so the motor won't start. With the key "on", crank the motor with the push button. You should see the voltage at the coil "cycle" between 6.2 volts (battery voltage) and about 3.5 volts. This system has (should have) an ignition resistor to reduce the coil voltage to about 3.5 volts. The "cycling" is caused by the points opening and closing. If the voltages "cycle" as they should, the coil, condenser and points are likely OK, and your problem may lie in the distributor cap, high-tension contacts or plug wires. You may also have an "open" in the coil secondary windings. If the voltage stays at 6.2 volts all the time, you may have an "open" in the primary windings of the coil, or the points may be stuck "open" or burned. You may also have an "open" in the secondary windings of the coil, or the ignition resistor may be absent or shorted. If the voltage stays at 3.5 volts all the time, the points are stuck shut, the condenser has shorted, or the primary circuit is somehow shorted to ground in the distributor. If, in tracing the circuit, you find that it has no ignition resistor (it's supposed to be mounted on the front of the dash, on the left - looks like a little spring with and aluminum cover and two screw terminals) then most likely the coil has been fried by the overvoltage. This was a common "temporary" fix for a tractor that's unwilling to start - it works so good it never gets undone, until the coil burns out. Good luck with it. llater, llamas
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