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Mikey..... .when did this problem originally start? If you are just "throwing parts" at a problem hoping one of them "fixes it" then I am going to have "guess" and as I keep reminding my wife, "I flunked mind reading". O.K. now that I have "scolded you", (grin) I'll try some "guesses". First the eazy "fix". The Bendix drive MUST BE "oil-free". Any oil on the drive slows down the screw extension (which causes the starter gear to mate with the flywheel ring gear) Slowed down extension allows the starter motor to reach operating RPM's and the gears won't mate at high RPM's. One cough of a sparkplug will cause the bendix drive to unscrew without causing the engine to really get up to starting RPM's is also another symptom of an oily bendix drive screw. They are meant to be "oil-free", believe it. Now then, If you replaced the "Bendix" and did not drill a new retaining pin hole in the starter shaft about 1/2" closer to the armature winding per the instruction sheet that should have come with the "replacement Bendix", you will cause the bendix to bang and grind on the starter ring gear. If you don't know or remember, you will have to "inspect" the starter shaft for 2 roll pin retaining holes and be certain that the replacement bendix is pinned to the inner hole. Understand this, the replacement bendix is different than the original bendix and you can not get an OEM bendix anymore. I don't think from your problem description that you have a flywheel starter ring gear problem. My advice is this: Get an "improved" ratcheting starter drive (just a few $$$ more than a replacement Bendix) that mounts in the original roll pin (outer) hole. It does not dis-engage until the engine RPM's get up to about 300 RPM's and by that time your engine should have well started. Hope this helps..... ...Dell
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