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8N Electrical System

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Craig(Tx)

06-29-1999 09:33:01




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I've got a '49 8N with a front mount distributer that I've owned since 1994. Prior to my ownership the tractor was converted to 12V. She runs OK, although a little hard to start. I'm trying to figure out what I've got electrical wise, if it is wired correctly, and if I should change anything (I know, if it aint broke, don't fix it, but I want it wired right, and I like to tinker with this thing) It has an alternator and a separate voltage regulator. It also has a ballast resistor in series with an ignition resistor. Here's my readings:

At terminal block: 13V. At ballast resistor: 13V. After ballast resistor: 11V. At ignition resistor: 11V. After ignition resistor: 10V. At coil: 9.5V.

The coil is not stamped 12v, but if it were a 6v, would it not have already been fried? (I put about 25 hrs a year on the tractor). If it is a 12v, then is 9.5v what the coil should be seeing? Is the ballast resistor necessary if it is a 12 v coil?

Any observations or advise is greatly appreciated; this board is a wealth of information.

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EricG.NH

06-29-1999 13:08:19




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 Re: 8N Electrical System in reply to Craig(Tx), 06-29-1999 09:33:01  
9.5V seems high to me. Were all the voltage measurements made with respect to the same point. This point should be the battery post, which is cabled to the chassis, which for a 12V, should be the negative terminal. Don't stop at the top of the coil. Remove the distributor cap and measure at the points and finallly at the chassis connection that cables up to the battery. While your in there take a good look at the points. Are they burnt or pitted? Hard starting can most times be fixed with a simple tune up. So you might want to just go the next step and pull the distributor and do the timing and change the points. Eric

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Craig(Tx)

06-30-1999 11:40:57




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 Re: Re: 8N Electrical System in reply to EricG.NH, 06-29-1999 13:08:19  
Eric- All the voltage measurements were made from the same point (the neg battery post) except the measurement made at the coil. Do you think the ballast resistor is the right one for the coil? I mean, if it is a 6v coil, then should'nt the ballast resistor drop the voltage from 13v to say...6v or 7v? And if it is a 12v coil, should I have a ballast resistor at all?

Thanks for your reply to my post, I appreciate it.
Craig

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EricG.NH

06-30-1999 16:36:31




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 Re: Re: Re: 8N Electrical System in reply to Craig(Tx), 06-30-1999 11:40:57  
Craig,
A 12V coil doesn't need a ballast resistor. The current recommended voltage at the top terminal of the 6V coil on a front mount is 3-4V. The resistor(s) should drop the voltage to this 3-4V. I can't say if it's the right resistor(s) without a little more info. The 9.5V you measured, I think is high. But why is it high? It's possible that there is a higher than normal resistance AFTER the coil. This would explain the 9.5V and why the coil hasn't burnt up. This is why I recommended you continue around the loop and measure the other nodes/connections, the points, the chassis connection, etc. I know it's a pain to do with the front mount coil, but it will either prove or eliminate this as a possibility. You can also double check your other measurements and measure across each part, like the ignition switch and the resistor and the coil and the points. All of voltages added up should equal the total battery voltage. IMO you should check this first before swapping parts. Which ever way you measure be consistant. Keep the same point of reference, like the battery post. Otherwise your inviting a lot of confusion.
Eric

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