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Not to be repetitive....but you really do need a manual if you are going to get into the pump. The lift cover is under the seat, but it's more like 14 bolts, not 4. The 4 nuts you see hold the lift piston to the cover. DO NOT remove those to remove the lift cover. But, more to the point, there are 3 valves: intake, exhaust & safety. I assume you want to remove the intake & exhaust valves. If so, the rocker, held in by a pin & cotter key needs to come off & then the valves slide out. I'm not sure you can do that through the inspection ports. Now to a question for you: why do you want to remove the valves in the first place? If you want to clean the pump out, you have 2 choices. You can do the "quick clean" or you can drop the pump. Tips 3 & 4 below will tell you how to change the fluid. After you get the old fluid drained out (overnight is best) remove both inspection plates & start pulling the sludge in the pump base out by hand. Then, get a couple of gallons of kerosene or diesel fuel & pour it into the pump base. Catch it in a bucket & reuse it. (Some folks use a hand garden sprayer.) Flush the pump base out 5 or 6 times. Do not start the engine to run the kerosene through the pump; kerosene and diesel fuel do not have any lubrication properties & you will damage your pump. Some folks will tell you that this 'quick-clean' is not as effective as dropping the pump & doing a full job. I do not dispute that, but it worked for me (so far) for the past 3 years on my 1951 N. If you have the time, drop the pump; if not, you are at least getting some of the crud out of it. Lastly.....tell us just what the hydraulics are doing or not doing; lots of folks here can help you fix it.
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