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1951 8N questions

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Von WC Ohio

02-05-2000 09:53:32




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I have a 8N which by the serial number shows to be a 1951 model. It has a Dearborn loader on it with a trip bucket and front mount hydraulic pump. Certainly not any good for manure or loose material with the trip bucket but I have a 1845 Case skidloader for that. I keep the 8N at the other place for odd lifting jobs so I don't have to keep driving the skidloader back and forth all the time. It is not used hard or really frequently but is very handy when really needed. Anyhow I have noticed that the shaft driving the front hyd. pump was not running true. I decided to check things out and noticed the crankshaft pulley appeared to be loose. Well to even get in to tighten it I had to take the loader off. It is not quick attach as the whole thing comes off as one piece but did not take long to drop off. With this out of the way I could pull the front drive shaft for the pump out. I though it might be bent but it's still straight and true. Well to get to the crank pulley and driving hub it was necessary to remove the front bolster and axle. The kingpin assembly is a special deal that the front of the loader attaches to. The crankshaft pulley sits in behind the casting and the allen screws for the drive hub were inaccessible otherwise. I got all that off without much trouble. I removed the driving hub from the center of the pulley and found that behind this hub there is a large bolt that is slotted for a screwdriver which was loose. I removed this and the pulley came off. Now there is a lot of slop in this pulley and it is obviously ruined. My question do you think the pulley took the wear or is their a danger that the crank may be worn also ? Can this slotted screw be replaced with a standard headed bolt that is easier to tighten? I can get the pulley but I would really like to replace the seal in the timing cover while I am in there. This has the side mount distributor on the timing cover. What sort of instructions would you give on removing the distributor and timing cover to keep things in line as far as timing ? On the crankshaft pulley seal, from what I can see it appears to be thick with some sort of felt or rope sealing surface. I have heard that it is necessary to remove the oil pan to change and I should also consider the rear seal also. I am sure that any new seal will be a modern one with a beveled rubber lip. Which direction is the seal supposed to go in? I don't have any technical manuals for this tractor so I was hoping you folks would be able to answer these questions. I am not all that familiar with the Ford as my experience is mostly with Oliver & JD Also any input on the best web sites for part availability and pricing for 8N's on the web would be helpful.

Thanks in advance for any advice or tips !


Von WC Ohio

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ZANE

02-05-2000 18:35:35




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 Re: 1951 8N questions in reply to Von WC Ohio, 02-05-2000 09:53:32  
I don't think there is any modern replacement front or rear seal and I wouldn't use one if there were. There is probably going to be a pretty deep indentation where the seal runs on the crank and the original type will fill it up and work just fine. After all it has worked for the past 50 year. Do you really thing a modern seal would last that long????
You would have to pull the pan to replace the bottom seals in the front and the rear. You will not be able to replace the top rear rope seal but it most likely does not need replaced anyway.They usually last till the next overhaul unless the rear main bearing goes and then you need to rebuild anyway.
The front and rear seals are rope. with the front one being about twice the size in cross section as the back one but about half the diameter of the rear or back one.
I would get a new pulley and install it and see how tight it fits on the cranshaft and if the front seal was not leaking with the old pulley it most likely won't leak with the new one.
If you remove the timing cover it will be necessary to retime the distributor when you reinstall the timing cover. If the engine is not turned and you mark the position of the rotor before you remove the distributor it should be possible to put the distributor back almost in time and do a little adjusting after starting the engine.

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tOTG

02-05-2000 14:39:32




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 Re: 1951 8N questions in reply to Von WC Ohio, 02-05-2000 09:53:32  
Mic the crank and see if it's worn. Maybe you're a lucky guy. You can replace the slotted bolt with a hex head G5 bolt and grind the head about 1/2 way off so it will clear under the drive hub.

Also check the drive hub for wear and the drive shaft. And the flexible coupler.

Before you pull the distributor, bring 1# to TDC on the start on the power stroke. The rotor will be in the #1 position with the points just opening.

Yes, you have to drop the pan to replace the main seals. They are a rope-packing material and tricky to get just right.

All the parts you need are supplied by TISCO, and most everybody is a TISCO dealer. Prices are pennies different. I'd get these items from my Ford-NH dealer (also TISCO). He'd 10% to 20% higher but I don't pay shipping and don't wait a week for delivery.

John.CO

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Von WC Ohio

02-05-2000 20:42:14




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 Re: Re: 1951 8N questions in reply to tOTG, 02-05-2000 14:39:32  
Thanks for the information !



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