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1948 8N ignition problems

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Gene Miller

06-05-2001 11:41:29

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My 1948 8N has been converted to 12V before I got it and it ran for about 3 weeks and the ignition dropped dead and it wouldn't start. I pulled the distributor and even though the points were only slightly pitted I replaced them and the condenser and replaced the coil with a New Holland 12 volt coil. I set the points at .015 and was barely able to get that with the adjustment cam. I also made sure the insulator between the condenser/points was OK when the points are open. She started right up and ran for about an hour when the same problem re-occured. I measured the voltage at the top of the coil and I have 4.7 volts at the terminal. Not a lot but should be enough to fire the coil. There is a dropping resistor in line and I plan to remove it but, it should still be enough to fire it. It WAS running! Maybe points slipped and are closed? Thanks for any help. Gene Miller

Here's an update. I went home yesterday afternoon, put the key in and she started right up! I have a NH 12 volt coil I just put in last weekend as part of the tune-up and the dealer assured me no ballast resistor was necessary but, the one that is already in there for the 6 volt coil is still there and that explains the 4.7 volts at the coil terminal.

Last but certainly not least is the water pump has a leak somewhere near the bottom radiator hose. I replaced the hose and double clamped it since the water pump neck was so long but I still have a slow leak there as the hose is still wet. I have a new water pump but haven't had a chance to change it as yet. It may be the cause of condensation in the distributor but I really doubt it. I'm located here in Paige Texas just east of Austin and the temperature has been in the mid 90's with 70-80% humidity lately. Maybe part of the cause of my ignition problems????

Gene Miller

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Gene Miller

06-06-2001 07:19:35

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Re: 1948 8N ignition problems in reply to Gene Miller, 06-05-2001 11:41:29

Update! Problem turns out to be the water pump seal leaking over the distributor. Now here's a good one. Manual says I should be able to R&R the water pump without having to remove the cowling. Not on this tractor! It has a 6 blade fan and when pushed up against the radiator I still need about another 1/8" to get the pump off the studs. So I figure I might just as well pull it apart and get the radiator pressure checked and rewire the poorly done 12 volt conversion while I've got it apart.

Thanks for the suggestions to those that answered!

Gene Miller

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Mountainman

06-05-2001 12:12:54

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Re: 1948 8N ignition problems in reply to Gene Miller, 06-05-2001 11:41:29

A front mount 12 volt coil should have between 8 and 10 volts with points closed, battery voltage with points open. You need some form of resistor to accomplish this � alternator voltage, which is higher than battery voltage, will blow the coil.
4.7 volts is high even for a 6 volt coil as it should have 3.5 to 4 volts/ points closed.
The key switch is also a likely villian. Next time the problem occurs, jumper around the key switch. Otherwise it sounds like you may have a bad coil. Yes, even new out of the box, coils have been found to be bad. The fact that it runs for about an hour before shutting down indicates a bad coil. The key switch usually takes a bit less time but not always. And you could have a resistor that goes bad.
The water leak could be a problem which will go away when you replace the pump. You might want to look into the distributor to see if it's getting wet inside.

Hope this helps.

Mountainman (CA)

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Errin OH

06-05-2001 12:11:26

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Re: 1948 8N ignition problems in reply to Gene Miller, 06-05-2001 11:41:29

I had a similar problem on a non-N tractor once. Run for 30 min or so then run like crap and die. Got so feed up with it I parked it for a year. When my boy took interest in it, we went to work and tuned her up. Still the same thing. All the problems pointed to ignition problems. Then I remember the book had the points set to something like .020. But if .015 was good enough for a N, what the heck ain't going to hurt. That #@$^@&% never ran so good. I assume that something had warned and the gap was just not right any more.

Anyway you said "I set the points at .015 and was barely able to get that" What do you mean? In my case when set to .025, they would just barely close and as the engine warmed up, they didn't close anymore. Causing me all that grief. Now I can't keep that boy of it. Sure wish I hadn't gotten rid of the deck.

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