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8N Advice

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Jimmy

06-03-2001 17:00:09




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Bought 8N - runs good - used a couple of times with a box blade - Oil leaking from rear wheels - very heavy. When you push on the rear wheel there is much play. Outer nut on rear wheels have been tack welded and outer threads on the shaft are stripped. Pulled left rear wheel. Shaft has been built up around splines (replacing axle shafts). There was a fair amount of Gasket Sealer between the Hub and the retainer - evidently someone too cheap to replace seals or too lazy. I have the Axle shaft and components out of the housing. Should I go all the way to pulling the housing? I don't see anything (seals)after the outer hub. Any prior experience on this repair job would be greatly appreciated.

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Skeeter/Kansas

06-03-2001 18:49:15




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 Re: 8N Advice in reply to Jimmy, 06-03-2001 17:00:09  
Jimmy, From what you post, it seems you will need a new axle shaft ($115.00) plus new axle bearing and bearing race(cup), new seal and gaskets for the retainer. The seals, gaskets, bearing and race should be about $33.00, and a set (2)wheel nuts like the ones that are welded together.
Now after you get all the parts, I can tell you how to stop any oil (fluid) from leaking from the axles. There is a void (space) between the oil seal retainer and the bearing hub. Bolt the gasket asembly with new gasket between the gasket retainer and the brake asembly, and bolt the brake asembly to the bearing cup(race) retainer.
You will notice there is a space (void) there. It is ll/16" wide. You will not need the tiny cork gasket that FNH says you will need. Here is my cure.. Go find you a "serpentine" fan belt. It is best to get a used one at a local car dealer, or you may have a car that uses these new style fan belts. The serpentine belt just happens to be ll/16" wide with five ribs, or 4 groves. Cut it to 8-3/4" long and force it into this space. Put the ribs side against the housing, the flat side shows towards the hub side. Put some oil on the belt so the hub will slide in there. It will be real tight, don't worry about the belt wearing out, these belts travel up to 5,000 rpm or more, and a 8N ford tractor hub will not hurt it. You have now a cure for rear axle oil leaks. No oil will get past the belt, and besides you will also have a new oil seals to help. But it lloks like you will need to purchase new axle shafts. \
Good luck.

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Jimmy

06-03-2001 19:18:04




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 Re: Re: 8N Advice in reply to Skeeter/Kansas, 06-03-2001 18:49:15  
Skeeter - You sound as though you have "been there-done that." I had planned on replacing the axle shafts but I just wasn't sure if there was anything missing that I didn't notice in the parts catalog. When I started looking at the parts list it showed a "Seal assy, (rear axle bearing Oil) Used only in tractor w/8n 4248." That's when I got lost. Thanks for all your help - I am going to order my shafts and a couple more seals and I will give it a shot. Take care out there in Kansas Way and keep'm safe.
Little Jimmy from Carolina.

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ZANE

06-03-2001 18:23:37




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 Re: 8N Advice in reply to Jimmy, 06-03-2001 17:00:09  
The early 8Ns did not have any inner seals in the axle trumpet housings and are more prone to leak than the later model 8Ns.

If you are replacing both the hub and the axle and seals though you should not have a problem with leaking.
Just be sure to retourque the big axle nut every 50 hours or more until you can no longer go to the next retainer hole in the nut. Never think you have it tight enough on the first tightening or you will be right back where you are now later on down the road.

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Jimmy

06-03-2001 18:40:21




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 Re: Re: 8N Advice in reply to ZANE, 06-03-2001 18:23:37  
Zane - I didn't have a clue about the retorque. Thanks much for the help.



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mojo

06-03-2001 17:54:18




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 Re: 8N Advice in reply to Jimmy, 06-03-2001 17:00:09  
If I understand you correctly both right @ left whells are leaking and the nut will not tighten up on both?



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Jimmy

06-03-2001 18:14:13




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 Re: Re: 8N Advice in reply to mojo, 06-03-2001 17:54:18  
Mojo - The wheels seem tight but there is a lot of in and out movement (assuming because of bearings/seals). I don't know the specific reason for the tack weld except to hold the nut in place. My main concern is that I get everything changed that should be changed to stop the leaking and movement. Thanks



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