removing flywheel?

1. I see that keeping the engine (crankshaft) from turning as I try to undo the flywheel bolts is an issue. I can't do the "rope in the sparkie holes" thing because the head is already off. Dan mentioned something about putting a screwdriver in there as a wedge to keep it from turning, but I'm not sure I understand it? Dan, are you online and if so do you have a picture? Or does someone else have an idea of how to keep it from turning?

2. I read several things about pounding on a 2x4 placed across the flywheel to "drive" it off the end of the crankshaft. But... where do you put the 2x4 that a blow would not drive it ONTO the crankshaft instead? Is there a way to get on the other side of it? (The oil pan is still on there.)

3. I see that putting an old tire under it on the floor will keep it from breaking. Does anyone know if that works, or know any details about how to "catch" the crankshaft when it comes out? Or am I better off removing it in a way (somehow) that will not make it "leap" free?

4. Any other points or suggestions? The more I prepare for this part after looking at those four sullen bolts and the apparently grim-faced pilot bearing area, the more I think I'd better be armed with some darned good "tricks."

5. Finally, I am still not sure WHERE to mark the crankshaft with respect to the flywheel, or the flywheel with respect to the crankshaft, or however that works. Is it necessary? If so, WHERE or WHAT am I to mark, with respect to WHAT?

Thanks as always. And I apologize for having to ask SO many questions at EVERY step! I keep thinking I have it figured out, but then I SEE the thing as I take stuff apart and it's like, 'uh-oh, that doesn't look like I thought it would.'

Dawn

I sure don't like the way you are supporting that engine. Build something out of wood to properly support the engine while you work on it right now. This wooden pallet could also be used to hold the engine while you transfer it to and from the engine rebuilder. Flesh and bones are nothing compared to cast iron engine mass and gravity forces.

2 - I just wedged a large flathead screwdriver in between the engine and flywheel. Be careful - once it comes off, it is HEAVY!

3 - An old tire under the flywheel is a good idea. Do not worry about the crankshaft, remove it with the engine swiveled upside down on your cool new engine stand - then you lift it up and out.

4 - After you get the flywheel off, what you need to do will be self explainatory - trust me.

5 - No need to mark the flywheel - the bolt holes are slightly offset and you will only be able to get them on one way (although I do remember someone a long time ago saying they put theirs on 180 degrees off...)

Good luck,
Dan

As it happens, the ranch/hardware store locally has only grade 2 bolts. So phooey! I am now calling around to see what I can find, as even those grade 2s are not long enough to attach the engine to the stand (if I wanted to use grade 2 for that, which I don't believe I do at this point). Soooo I will probably have to drive quite a ways to get bolts before I take the next step. The good news is this gives me time to plot my next steps of flywheel removal.

Empannage, the engine is not as secure as I'd like, but it's supported at present by the jack adaptor frame, an additional jack, and the wood you saw. I plan to work that flywheel out of there with great care for that very reason, and Jo has said she'll help. But you've pointed to the Achilles heel of the whole thing. I'm hoping removing the weight of the flywheel will allow me to stabilize the engine WAY better so I can jack it up to get it onto the engine stand. But I may have to fool with it more on this end, first. It IS presently stable, however. I checked it again this morning.

Old, you are right that I find myself in precisely the awkward position you predicted. But hey, at least it means I'm predicatable! LOL We just could not get that winch up over the rafter. We tried. I suppose the cherry-picker would have been good to rent, but I am really not sure we could have maneuvered it into the shop. And I also think the transmission jack adapter would have worked perfectly had the local mechanic not "adapted" it a little more than I think it was meant to be "adapted". I'm just glad I trusted my own instinct to ram the screwdriver through there! Whew!

Dell, are you saying that all I have to do is keep one of the pistons from being able to come up in the cylinder, and this will keep the crankshaft from turning? If so -- COOL! Maybe I can do that and have fewer "things" stuck into the flywheel. It sounds like it will be bristling like a porcupine by the time I pry it loose!

You all are the BEST! I've wanted to do this work all my life, and I'm going to make it because of you all! It might not be gracefully done, but this has already been one of the most wonderful experiences of lifetime -- and I've been lucky enough, blessed enough, to get to do a lot of cool stuff. THANK YOU again!!!

Dawn

• Hobby farm

You'll find that yer flywheel is held on by 4-bolts and 2-dowlpins. Your worry about re-installing incorrectly is un-founded. The bolt-holes are non-concentric (lop-sided) or un-evenly spaced. But to make you feel warm and fuzzy, scratch two lines side-by-side across just 1/2 yer flywheel-to-crankshaft joint. ...or... use a prick-punch (pointed centering punch) to punch 2-dimples across from each other. Simple, eh?

Use the same dimple-punch to mark/match yer pistonrod caps (1,2,3,4 punches) simple, eh?

When it comes time to remove yer flywheel, have a couple of yer flywheel bolts loosly installed into crankshaft end. That way as you "pry-as-necessary" to wiggle the flywheel off the crankshaft, it won't fall off unexpectedly. Simple, eh?

Iff'n yer replacing yer pilot bearing, just fill the hole behind it with greese and use a just-fitting bolt thru the pilot center hole and a hammer to hydraulicly pump/punch the bearing out with a sharp hammmer blow. Simple, eh? Replacement is by "tapping" the new bearing back into the hole until it bottoms-out. (you'll know when 'cuz it stops moving) Simple, eh?

Spare tire to rest yer HEAVY (25#) flywheel on as you remove it from crankshaft is good thing to have. Iff'n you haffta haul yer engine into town for engine shop work. Lay yer engine down on old tire in back of yer pick-up or trunk..... ...Dell

TOH

• Hobby farm

As for marking the flywheel, I believe that there is only one way that it can line up with the crankshaft. You will see this once you have it off.

The fly wheel is very heavy and it may not be easy to just catch as it comes off. It would be smart to have something underneath it to protect it in case if it does fall. I think that tires will work fine. However, I would not just let it fall off. I would try to have a hold of it as it comes off...just make sure that your feet are out of the way in case if you do lose it. This is something that you may want to get help with. It is best done with at least two people. One to pry it off and the other to catch it. The tires will provide a good cushion in case you can't keep a hold of it and it does fall.

I hope that helps.

Dawn,

From the picture it looks like you can wedge some wood between the flywheel and the bellhousing where the starter would mount(same side as the picture) . As you loosen the bolts the flywheel will want to turn counter clockwise thus wedging the wood between the flywheel ring gear and the bellhousing (old small piece of 2X4 should do it). Also as you turn the flywheel the front pulley (still on?) will turn. Can you get a wrench on the bolt on the front pulley or is the hand crank lug there?

By the time you are done you may wish you had never started. If you find yourself getting frustrated walk away for awhile. I am concerned that you don't realize what you are getting yourself into.

DON'T EVER GET IN A RUSH OR HURRY YOURSELF!
CAUTIOUS & CAREFUL AND CAREFUL & CAUTIOUS!
ACCIDENTS CAN HAPPEN TO THE MOST EXPERIENCED.

I do agree with the don't get in a rush...there were many times that I was frustrated and I just simply walked away and came back to it later. It always worked out and I got past my problems. Many of those problems that I encountered are what made it such a valuable learning experience.