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Ford 9N, 2N & 8N Discussion Forum

battery drain

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08-27-2005 03:21:46

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Whenever I leave my 52 8n for a couple of days without starting it, the battery goes dead. Any hints on where to start in checking for the leak?

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Dell (WA)

08-27-2005 07:44:10

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 Re: battery drain in reply to mschiefert, 08-27-2005 03:21:46  
Mischief..... ...this is a "common" problem with idiot-lite scheme 12v conversions and is caused by by internal solidstate guttz of the alternator. Very common at airport parking lots to find dead batterys too. The idiot-lite will leak electrons and NOT GLOW. Gitta "free" alternator test at yer local auto-parts emporium.

Iff'n this is an OEM 6v genny 8N, then most likely yer squarecan voltage regulator's internal "cutt-outt" relay is sticking and NOT disconnecting the genny from the battery when you stop the engine. Best cure is a NEW voltage regulator. Remember to re-polarize yer new voltage regulator by "arc-sparkin" the heavy wire BATT & ARM terminals together, engine OFF..... ....Dell

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08-27-2005 07:24:45

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 Re: battery drain in reply to mschiefert, 08-27-2005 03:21:46  
Good advice from rob and rick so far.

One thing i do, is take a test lamp and pull a battery cable.. put test lamp inline.. if the bulb lights.. you know there is a decent drain.. leave it like that and disconnect one wire in the harness at a time. when the lamp goes out.. whatever you just disconnected was the culpret.


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Rick H. Ga.

08-27-2005 06:38:18

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 Re: battery drain in reply to mschiefert, 08-27-2005 03:21:46  

I don't know if this will help you out or not but the battery was draining on one of my tractors recently and it turned out to be a bad diode in the alternator allowing current to drain to ground. HTH. Rick

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08-27-2005 04:13:00

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 Re: battery drain in reply to mschiefert, 08-27-2005 03:21:46  
You begin with a fully charged battery. If you got something shorted you will get a spark. Go to the terminal block and remove the three wires. One is hot from the starter soleniod and one goes to the ignition switch. Brush them together and if it sparks, (look and listen closely) remove the two wires on the other post. Brush the ignition switch wire to the hot wire and if it still sparks the leak is in the ignition switch or leads. If the other wire sparks then the leak is in that wire or out in the coil or distributor so put it back together. Go to the coil and remove the small primary wire and if it does not spark that primary wire is leaking. If it sparks then put it back on and remove the other small primary wire to the distributor and if it does not spark the coil is leaking to ground. I hope you get the picture of how to check the wires and parts. I don"t want to type out each and every wire and part. Just continue tracing like I described until you find the part or wire that is leaking. If it is not in the ignition circuit you take the generator regulator wire off the resister block three wire post to see if the short is in the generator circuit. If it is not any wire on the resister block then go to the starter solenoid and check the small wire off the small solenoid post.
Just follow the spark and you should find the leak in short order. While you are at it, wire brush and clean up those wires and posts. Shiny, bright and tight. A tiny dab of silicone dielectric compound on each connector and post will prevent corrosion and poor connections for years and years. Oh, and really dirty stuff might create a slow electrical leak. Clean the battery (baking soda and water) and clean any other cruddy stuff. Paint thinner is a fairly safe, cheap, clean drying, and paint friendly solvent that will clean that stuff up nice.

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