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Ford 9N, 2N & 8N Discussion Forum

Transmission Flush and Clean.

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08-03-2004 07:34:35

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I have had water problems in the transmission, ever since I got my tractor. Over the weekend I drained the fluid and now I want to wash out the sluge and water contaminated remenants.

Last time I did this, the new oil I put in was immediatly contaminated.

Searching the archives I see several "informed" opinions, but would like your thoughts.

The opinions run...

Flush with kerosine... How much? fill the system and run it for how many minutes, run the hydraulich up and down etc? Use a garden pump sprayer and just wash it down with out running?

Same as above with fuel oil/diesal?

Use water based oil degreasers... i.e. citris based, sump cleaners from ZEP.
I am leary of putting in a water based produst as I am tring to get the water out. How do you get all the water out of the system if you use one of these products.

Thanks for your reply.

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Steve (Magnolia, TX)

08-03-2004 11:48:01

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 Re: Transmission Flush and Clean. in reply to Jeff-oh, 08-03-2004 07:34:35  
I can relate what I did, for my '50 8N.

After draining all of the oil (all 3 plugs) I got ~3 gallons of diesel. Replaced all plugs and poured the diesel in. Stirred it around a while (using a parts cleaning brush) then drained it. Let the diesel settle a bit, then repeat. I did this through about 5 or 6 cycles (somewhere in there I reached in through the side inspection ports and, by hand, cleaned out all the 'sludge' in the bottom of things).
5 gallons of GL-1 (and a new shifter boot) later, she's runnin' fine...


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08-03-2004 11:21:21

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 Re: Transmission Flush and Clean. in reply to Jeff-oh, 08-03-2004 07:34:35  
If you really want to do ir right and suspect it hasn"t been done in decades I would suggest dropping the pump. When I did our 2N there was at least 2" of sludge in the bottom and this gives you plenty of room to really clean it out.

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Bob - MI

08-03-2004 10:46:43

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 Re: Transmission Flush and Clean. in reply to Jeff-oh, 08-03-2004 07:34:35  

Water based materials will lead to some level of entrapped water in the recessed areas of the cases. I would go with solvent approach and either diesel or kerosene will work ok. I am always leaning towards the overkill side on the subject of cleaning the housings as I found quite a bit of metal shavings in the rear case due to bad differential bearings. There were years of sludge in the rear and mid case that I scrubbed out with a parts cleaning brush. For final touchup I used some aerosol cleaner but a pump sprayer would work well too.

There are lots of guys who run the tractor after putting the solvent in the transmission but I worry about that. Kerosene has little lubrication quality and besides, if you loosen up the sludge it will be circulating in the fluid that is now washing around in the bearings and gears. Running the lift is the same thing.

Only my opinion.

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08-03-2004 08:22:09

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 Re: Transmission Flush and Clean. in reply to Jeff-oh, 08-03-2004 07:34:35  
Get a gallon of kerosene or paint thinner. Remove the inspection plates and tranny top cover and pour the solvent through the parts. Get a parts cleaner brush ($5-$6) at the auto parts store and you can brush and scrub around in there and end up with a sparkly clean sump and parts.
Let it drain off, settle the crud out, and pour it through again. It won't take a huge deal you'll have it all cleaned up and dry. Put a fresh shifter boot on there. Good starter button. Dip stick. Squirt some oil around the shaft in the base of the control spring (that shaft goes into the hydraulics and has a felt seal moisture can get through if it's dry). Change the hydro oil every spring or 600hrs whichever comes first and you will keep it dry.

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08-03-2004 07:46:26

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 Re: Transmission Flush and Clean. in reply to Jeff-oh, 08-03-2004 07:34:35  
I would be leary of putting in anything and letting it run. At best, I would pull the bottom bung, and use a sprayer to spray some diesel around and let it drain thru. Remember you have hyds and diffy sharing this sump.. you don't want alot of particles floating around.

I havn't used any water based products, so can't comment.

Kero or diesel shoul displace water pretty well in the gears.. etc.. once you do a couple changes.. as long as no more water is getting in.. it should be ok... replace that shifter boot if you havn't already.. that is a prime water entry spot.

Bottom line is that when you drain all three drains.. you still aren't getting 100% of the oil out. Any water in emulsion or in puddled low spots will still be there. However every time you chage the oil.. you dilute that water more and more.. that plus the heat of running should flash off a non-negligable amount of moisture.

Isopropyl alcohol carries water real good.. however to add enough to get a decent concentration in that size of a sump would be quite a few dollars.. probably cheaper to just change the oil a few times a year untill it is clean.


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