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Loader Counterweight

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Ken Goth (MO)

01-29-2001 10:44:51




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I posted this on the Ford board and thought I'd get this board's opinion as well. I a member of the 2 Ford tractors club - '52 8N (my first) and '64 2000 w/loader.
I have a 2000 with a Kelley loader on it. I would like to make a counter weight for the three point out of concrete. What would be a good weight and how much concrete (cu. yards)would it take? My idea is to weld a 3 pt frame then put a form around it to cast the concrete. Any opinions/advice?

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Larry 8N75381

01-29-2001 17:03:19




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 Re: Loader Counterweight in reply to Ken Goth (MO), 01-29-2001 10:44:51  
Ken,

Glad to see you also are a member of "the Club". :-)

I would suggest using a "carry-all" to start - you might have to buy one, or make one, but they are handy to have anyway. Sort of like the "two tractors" logic, the more reasons you can think of to have some "toy" the easier it is to justify it. :-)

Then use concrete blocks, a barrel filled with water, or what ever to get some weight acting as the counterweight. Test drive the tractor with no load in the bucket. I'd use the most weight I could and still have the front steer well. Then you could weigh the result to give you a traget for the "permenent" counterweight. Remember, the further back from the rear wheels you can get the less weight you need, and the lower the load on the rear tires. Now you might want more weight on the rears for traction, so it is your choice.

Greg, read the post linked below. It will explain why rear wheel weights (and also fluid in them) does NOTHING to reduce the front tire load. The whole point of a counter weight with a front loader is to reduce the front tire load. That is a common mistake that people make. They know that wheel weights will keep the rear down if you have a heavy load in out in front of the tractor, like the bucket of a front end loader.

Regards,
Larry

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Greg NE

01-30-2001 14:39:17




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 Re: Re: Loader Counterweight in reply to Larry 8N75381, 01-29-2001 17:03:19  
Larry I agree totally that a counter weight will make it steer alot easier when there is nothing in the bucket I am only concerned that if there is enough weight in the back and you have good enough hydraulics that you may overload the frontend and break something if you try to pick up too much. Thanks for the link Greg NE



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John in NH

01-29-2001 16:50:33




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 Re: Loader Counterweight in reply to Ken Goth (MO), 01-29-2001 10:44:51  
I have about a 1000lb block on my 8n,its sounds like a lot but the 3pt lifts it. I take it off after snow plowing season.



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Greg NE

01-29-2001 12:35:06




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 Re: Loader Counterweight in reply to Ken Goth (MO), 01-29-2001 10:44:51  
Have you thought about getting some rear tire weights for the tractor that way you can still use the 3pt for other jobs without taking the weight box off. You may also want to be careful not to overload the tractor, you may end up breaking something on the frontend if you try to pick something up that is too heavy. good luck Greg NE



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Pitch

01-29-2001 12:07:53




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 Re: Loader Counterweight in reply to Ken Goth (MO), 01-29-2001 10:44:51  
I have no idea what it weighs but the guy down the road from me used the bottom 1/3 of a 55 gal drum.



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ED

01-29-2001 11:42:34




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 Re: Loader Counterweight in reply to Ken Goth (MO), 01-29-2001 10:44:51  
Our structural engineer in the office sez that concrete weighs between 145 and 150 pounds per cubic foot. With 27 cubic feet in a cubic yard, one cy of concrete weighs from 3,915 to 4,050 pounds.

I don't know what a recomended counterweight would be, but it seems that if you took your loader's capacity and at the very least matched it with tractor and concrete, you would be okay, since the weight of the tractor and concrete is farther way from the ballance point (front axle) than the loader weight.

Good luck!
Che

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