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Lift arm stud in axle housing

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Jerry '47 8N, T

01-11-2001 06:06:30




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The other day I noticed grease leaking from around the stud located in the axle housing that holds the lift arm. It's not leaking enough grease to mark its spot but the stud and lift arm ball are well oiled. I tried to tighten it but it just spins.
Is it held in with a nut? Is it sealed
from the main housing full of grease? I'm afraid I'll have to pull the axle and take the axle housing off to repair it. How much does the axle housing weigh? Any tips on pulling the axle etc would be greatly appreciated. I have
an I&T manual but real life experiences tend to be more valuable. Anything I should look at or replace while I'm in there?
Thanks,
Jerry '47 8n TX

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Thanks!

01-12-2001 05:14:36




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 Re: Lift arm stud in axle housing in reply to Jerry '47 8N, TX, 01-11-2001 06:06:30  
I'd like to thank everyone for sharing their
knowledge and experience. This is a great site and N owners seem to be about the nicest
most helpful folks on the web.



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Tom Majeski

01-11-2001 15:01:03




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 Re: Lift arm stud in axle housing in reply to Jerry '47 8N, TX, 01-11-2001 06:06:30  
I replaced a lose pin on my '53 Jubilee. Did the job myself. One tip I picked up from a longtime mechanic: coat the tapered pin with Locktite or similar product to prevent oil from weeping if the housing is worn. And use a torque wrench to retighten the pin. Good luck.



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Old George

01-11-2001 10:04:08




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 Re: Lift arm stud in axle housing in reply to Jerry '47 8N, TX, 01-11-2001 06:06:30  
Jerry, I could be mistaken, or if I am not the other guys misread your post. Sounds to me like your talking about messed up threads where the bolt goes, not the pin itself. If the leakage is not a problem and the pin is good and tight there may be a way to fix the threads without taking the trumpet off. The bolt threds into the trumpet behind the pin. Just a thought. Any other ideas guys?



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Dave in Mo

01-11-2001 09:36:34




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 Re: Lift arm stud in axle housing in reply to Jerry '47 8N, TX, 01-11-2001 06:06:30  
These guys are right about disassembly but no one mentioned to put some silicone on the taper of the new or retightened stud. There's no way that the taper reamed hole in the cast housing is not somewhat wallowed out. Deburr the hole as best you can as there will likely be a ridge somewhere. A taper reamer is the right thing to use but who has one of them? Snug up the castelated nut pretty good. Remember, all the draft horsepower is being transmitted through those studs.

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Tom 8N396936

01-11-2001 09:10:09




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 Re: Lift arm stud in axle housing in reply to Jerry '47 8N, TX, 01-11-2001 06:06:30  
Jerry, I had the same problem with my '51. I was a bit nervous about tearing in to it but was really a piece of cake. Just a few tips from my job; use a sling for the trumpet its heavy! Drain the oil first!!! Fit the new gasket on by soaking in water for a few minutes then keep rotating it till it fits. I think the torque spec on that nut is 200 ft/lbs if memory is any good. Tighten /replace both while your in there. Watch the ring gear; it will fall out,just have a helper (wife) keep a hand on it. I did the whole job myself with my lovely brides help. All in all took me 2 hours and I am a rookie.
good luck tom

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Greg (NAA)

01-11-2001 07:49:26




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 Re: Lift arm stud in axle housing in reply to Jerry '47 8N, TX, 01-11-2001 06:06:30  
I had the same problem this fall. You have to pull the axle trumpet to access the nut on the end of the pin (although I read about someone tightening it thru the PTO shaft hole).

I would recommend replacing the pin since you don't want to have to go back in there. New pins are available for $20-30 from Ford NH, or better yet one of the board sponsors. Got mine from Don's Just 8-n's.

Job is well described by some of the other posters and there's more info in the archives - search "lower link pin".

The axle trumpet is somewhat heavy, but you don't need anything more than musclepower, especially with a helper. Took my father and I about 2 to 2 1/2 hours total, and we'd never done it before. Leave the nut on the top of the axle trumpet loose but on its stud until you're ready to pick off the assembly. If you have an impact wrench it helps a lot because of the number of nuts to remove. Be sure to tighten down the nut on the end of the lower link pin to 150-200 ft./lbs. Trickest part was putting the locking cotter pin thru again.

Good time to change your rear axle and hydraulic fluid too.

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Don't have to remove the trumpet.

01-11-2001 07:34:17




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 Re: Lift arm stud in axle housing in reply to Jerry '47 8N, TX, 01-11-2001 06:06:30  
I too thought I was in for more of a job than I wanted and was prepared to just let it leak. Then by chance I removed the PTO shaft to work on my hydraulics and lo and behold there was that nut holding the "Lower Link Shaft" in there. I first ordered a new gasket for the shaft plate. WHen it arrived I drained all the hydraulic fluid and removed the PTO shaft by loosening the four bolts holding it on and just pulling it straight out. Then I took a pair of pliars and pulled the cotter pin out and used 1 1/16" socket and breaker bar to reach up in through the PTO opening and held on to the castelated nut while I loosened the outside nut on the shaft. I also removed the other nut just behind the lower link shaft. I then replaced the gasket and reassembled everthing in reverse order.

Good Luck.
Mitch (Va)

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Don (NC)

01-11-2001 08:39:01




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 Re: Re: Lift arm stud in axle housing in reply to Don't have to remove the trumpet., 01-11-2001 07:34:17  
Can you get to both sides through the PTO shaft? This technique sure beats pulling the trumpet off.

BTW, the trumpet weight is significant, at LEAST a two man job, especially replacing it onto the studs.
Don



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jim in az

01-11-2001 08:49:54




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 Re: Re: Re: Lift arm stud in axle housing in reply to Don (NC), 01-11-2001 08:39:01  
No you cant get to the left side. aneyway I could not. Had to take off left trumpet then lift out ring gear. Good luck
jim



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jerry '47 8N

01-11-2001 10:00:22




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Lift arm stud in axle housing in reply to jim in az, 01-11-2001 08:49:54  
Would that be the left side from the driver's
perspective? That's the one that I have trouble with...



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Mitch

01-11-2001 11:04:18




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Lift arm stud in axle housing in reply to jerry '47 8N, 01-11-2001 10:00:22  
The one I had a leak on was the right (under the position control lever). Didn't think about the left but now that I have. I'd say the trumpet will have to come off for the left side.



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bg

01-11-2001 06:38:13




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 Re: Lift arm stud in axle housing in reply to Jerry '47 8N, TX, 01-11-2001 06:06:30  
The pin is held by a castellated nut. If it hasn't wallowed out the hole, you can tighten it by removing the left axle trumpet.(You can also tighten the right side pin through the left side opening.) You then remove the cotter pin and remove the nut. Clean off the pin and its socket, inspect for damage and re-install. If the pin is damaged, new ones are available. You'll need a new trumpet gasket which needs to be dampened with water or oil before installation so that it will stretch to fit the bolt-hole pattern of the differential housing. The trumpet itself isn't all that heavy, but it's good to have a helper.

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Jerry Cummings (NH)

01-11-2001 06:33:55




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 Re: Lift arm stud in axle housing in reply to Jerry '47 8N, TX, 01-11-2001 06:06:30  
You're right; you'll have to tear into the rear end. It's not that bad a job though. Poke around in here and you'll see other notes how it's done and some images too.

It goes something like this:

- obtain gasket for trumpet

- drain the hydraulic/transmission fluid from all three places

- take off the left tire (as viewed from the seat)

- take off the left fender

- Use something like a couple of slings off of a come-along attached to a rafter to support the left hand trumpet.

- unbolt it and use the come-along to lower it

- inspect washer/gasket on the inside of the pin for wear.

- inspect pin for wear.

- If either are needed, replace. If not needed re-torque.

- Remove ring gear; it just pulls out.

- Repeat inspection, etc. for right hand pin.

- reassemble and fill with oil

- I removed the PTO shaft; don't recall if that's necessary or not. If so, you may want to get a new gasket.

If your lift is working fine, then the only
thing you may want to do while you have the
fluid drained is clean it out. I had my lift
cover off and the pump dropped so I really
went at it. You may just want to follow Zane
and Andy's advice in earlier posts for cleaning
it out with kerosene.

I've heard that the more these pins get loose,
the more wear/damage that occurs to the cast iron
socket for the pin. So correcting the problem
sooner rather than later might be a good thing.

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