12volt

Most 12 successful 12 volt conversions connect an "excitation" wire from their ignition switch thru an "isolation" device like a dashboard alernator worning lightbulb or a "diode" to the #2 terminal on the alternator.

If you don't isolate, you will not beable to turnoff your engine as the alternator will "feedback" to the same terminal that the ignition coil is connected to and no matter what you do with your ignition switch, the engine will still continue to run.

I could continue to tell you how to successfully convert to 12 volts but there are several web pages that have done it better with diagrams and pictures. You might want to search the web for answers. You might also want to check the "archives" at the top of this most excellent N-Board. Read 'em and weep. More dog-gone problems in converting.

I'm a 12 volt advocate for the right reasons. And I know how to do it right. That said, I still haven't found the right reason to convert my eazy starting 6 volt 8N. Remember the 6 volt mantra, "clean, bright, and tight"..... ....Dell

1 wire 12 volt alternators work fine if you rev your engine up to "get their attention".

3 wire 12 volt alternators work fine on the low revin' N-Engine.

Ya' pays yer monies and takes yer choices..... ....Dell

• 8N 12 Volt Conversion Page

Yep, it will slide in and out, and I think there are about 3 or 4 different lengths you can "set" it at. I keep mine at the shortest length, and that way I don't have to remove it to do anything except when I put on the plow (and then the ORC has to come off too :-(

I got the swinging drawbar from Buchheit's, in Perryville, MO. Buchheit's is a farm store like Tractor Supply Company (I would assume, having never been to a TSC), or Rural King, or....??? You shouldn't have too much trouble finding the swinging drawbar assembly(s) that you need...they're pretty common and the same parts fit several different tractors besides the N's. If I remember correctly, everything needed to install the swinger cost about $100, and it is worth every penny to me. If you can't find a store that carries them or can order the parts for you, just go to your Ford/New Holland dealer, and they can set you up too. Also, I believe that Walt's Tractor Parts and also Just 8N's also can get them for you.

chuck
436244

But I am NOT an alternator rebuilder expert.

Heres my take 1 wire vs 3 wire Alternators.

1 wire conceptionally seems to make a lot of installation sense BUT because of tractors low RPM operation, does not really charge well. Of course if you operated up at 5000 RPMs like the chevy V8 it was designed for, no problem.

The 3 wire alternator seems to charge at low RPM because excitation is ignition switch provided to #2 terminal. The problem is that same switch connection also goes to the ignition coil. So far, so good. UNFORTUNATELY, when you go to turn the engine off with the ignition switch, it doesn't turn off BECAUSE the #2 alternator connection somehow is backfeeding 12 volts to that same ignition switch terminal that goes to the ignition coil.....an' vola'.....the engine keeps running. Therefore, you need some form of "isolation" in that #2 wire to prevent backfeeding 12 volts to the ignition coil. The simplest way, is to do it like chevy does it, wire an alternator idiot light in the #2 wire. Or you can be more "exotic" and use a diode but using a diode you have a 50/50 chance of installing it incorrectly and then nothing runs.

There has been many messages to the N-Board about this 12 volt conversion process. I suggest you might want to check the "archives" at the top of this most excellent N-Board. I can think of at least 4 Web sites that have excellent 12 volt conversions articals. You might want to check some of the side boards for more information.

And no, I don't have a web page..... .....Dell