(OT) Pole ban building questions

1. How do you erect the poles w/o a boom or some such device? Can it be done by hand? I have about 12 16-18' poles I need to put up.

2. If you don't use metal siding, what do you do about something like T-111 where it gets close to the ground? Is it ok to just attach it directly to the splash block?

3. Someone gave me those round chemonite treated greenpoles. Is it going to be difficult getting the side girts to line up on them; i.e. should I
just get rid of those even if they were free and buy 6x6's instead?

4. (Most important) Is it possible to build this thing by myself, with maybe my wife helping? It will be a 24x24 most likely, probably a lean-to type roof, but maybe a gable roof with trusses.

Thanks for any help!
Jake

We use his JD with a boom. Tie a chain about mid way of the pole, so that one end just barely tilts to the ground. I hold the pole off the ground, and we position it over the hole. I put a strip of sheet metal on one side of the hole to avoid pulling in dirt with the pole. He pulls forward while I guide the pole into the hole. You have to be careful that the pole does not sway to the side, but it does not seem to be a problem. The side away from the sheet metal, and toward the tractor, will scrape about a foot of dirt into the hole. Takes about ten minutes per pole.

I had some old telco poles laying about so I used them. All I had was a few 2x4s(later used as roof trusses), rope, a chainsaw, post hole digger and a shovel.

I made a gabled roof on my barn/shed. 4 foot higher at the center than the ends, a 21x22ft building in all, using 12ft metal roofing.

To place the poles I dug down 4 to 5 ft w the post hole digger, used a shovel to slope one side of the hole. I rolled the pole over the hole (18 fter), Put 2 2x4s standing up in the back of the hole so it would not collapse, and pulled it pretty much upright using my ATV, rope and an aframe setup. After its standing it will be easy to hand push it pretty much upright. Fill it in adjusting as you go, tamp etc... worked well.

After I measured and used the chainsaw to notch out the tops for my 2x6 stringers, about an hour per pole after I got it down. Of course we have only sand in these parts, no rocks to fight with.

BTW 1.Use a sturdy a-frame. 2.Its easier to line up the pole on the ground if you use 2 2x4s as rails to roll it on, and this helps to prevent premature hole collapse also.

If you feel froggy.. and the poles are free go for it.... if you use the wood siding, and it isnt perfect, use runners or firing strips to shim it up... it's a barn right? I've seen hundreds of telephone pole - pole barns.

For the union of the bottom plate and siding, etc.. you will already be using PT wood anyway.

It wouldn't hurt to add a little extra treatment .. like water shield, etc.

Probably wouldn't hurt to termite pretreat the area either. Iv you have a local 'kill it yourself' pesticide store, you can buy products like demon, ground stable permethrin, or sentry and apply it yourself.. all three are professional grade termite treatments. In lieu of those, I would at least hit the areas with a good saturated coat of farm mix emulsion type permethrin ( not ground stable for more than a couple weeks ) and then do 'booster' applications every couple months around the perimeter to stave off termites, ants.. or any other insects you don't want in the barn.

I don't know how heavy the piles you will be setting are, but if you dig the footer holes and a sloped entrance to the hole, you and a neighbore should be able to manhandle them in place... I set some 18' 4x4's by myself.. two guys should handle a pole fairly well.

Lots of 'helpers' can be fabricated to help you set these poles. Small 'A' frames, "H" frames as props for tipping the poles up and over the fulcrum (pivot point).. etc.

Make the best use of legerage and mechanical advantage whenever possible.

I often ( read: always ) have to build the farm stuff myself... The lit riding areena with the lights on the poles... miles of plumbing and electric, various and sundry animal pens, free standing horse stalls and shade structures out in the pasture.... you get used to figuring out how to do it with ropes, pullies, braces, 'dead men' the tractor and boom pole... extra ladders.. etc...

Tamp frequently as you fill the piles footers.. ( I.E. don't fill them completely then just compact the surface.

Concrete shouldn't be needed around the friction pile, though a flat block is usually thrown in the bottom.

Good luck and be safe.. if the job gets to the point that you feel that it is unsafe, get a crane or hire it out.

Soundguy

chuck
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