NAA

Fired right up, drove the tractor to the garage. There I re-installed the air filter and tie wrapped the wires. Now it won't work. Here are the symptoms:

The solenoid clicks like crazy, turns the engine over 1/2 turn, then just clicks. The 12V coil was VERY HOT to the touch as well. When it was running, the amp gauge was pegged at 30Amps. Battery is brand new, lights work just fine, very bright.

The only odd thing that happened when I was cleaning things up, I was tightening the lug on the alternator and touched the ratchet to the engine block, very mild spark. That was it.

Anyone have any thoughts? Any help is appreciated. Thanks in advance!

ALL INDICATE A MUCKED UP WIRING JOB by the installer.

Your alternator stud sparkie job probably BLEW the internal gutts of the alternator. I'd taker into a autoparts store for a "free" alternator check out.

Then carefully recheck your wiring job for correct connections, some connections could have been shorted out by squeezing the wiring harness with tie-wraps.

You do know your 12 volt alternator DEMANDS a negative grounded 12 volt battery, don't you?

If your starter only turns your engine 1/2 turn with 12 volts, you've probably had a BAD starter to begin with and all that EXTRA 12 volt power has jambed the starter. Better inspect it, probably needs new brushes and bearings. Not a difficult or expensive job.

Electrical problems can be extreamly frustrating to the electrically challenged. You're lucky, the NAA is really quite a simple electrical system..... ..... respectfully, Dell

Alternator issue won't effect starting. But what would cause the coil to get so hot? I will jump start the starter tomorrow, if turns over no issue there.

or slipped closed ignition points will make the coil into continous duty mode and OVERHEAT.

And of course, you realize to generate sparkies, the points must OPEN. And without sparkies your engine won't run eather.

And if you bought a new 12 volt coil from the dealer, its really an 8 volt coil that usually has a little paper tag that sez "use with resistor", but who reads instructions, eh?

Myself, if'n I was doing a NAA 12 volt conversion, I'd use a REAL 12 volt coil that uses NO RESISTOR, I call'em "hot-rod" coils and thats where I'd probably buy it, too..... ...respectfully, Dell

Its the OHMS man, the ohms. Every resistor has different values of ohms to electrically do different things. And a 12 to 6 volt converting resistor has TOO MANY OHMS, to be used willie-nilley as a replacement for the carefully electrically engineered ballast resistor. That is why you have just a marginally acceptable coil voltage of 2.5 volt instead of the more desireable 3.5 volts and subsiquently less sparkies.

All resistors are NOT EQUAL. Get and use the proper p/n 9N-12250 resistor assy. (commonally known as the ballast resistor)..... ....respectfully, Dell

Unfortunately, untill you use lab grade electronic ohm meters $$$$, most commonally available ohm meters are NOT ACCURATE at low ohm measurements, its a technical thing.

In fact, common voltmeter measurements are more accurate to measure ballast resistance by voltage drops as Kerchoff Law and Ohms Law rule.

Remember the 6 volt mantra: "Keep'em clean, bright, and tight" and don't be fer usin' enny of them thar wimpy ferrin battery cables. Use 'arry chested 'merrican made one-aught (1/0) thick as yer thumb battery cables..... ...respectfully, Dell