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48 won't quit coughing

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DallasGa

05-06-2003 06:48:17




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My 48 has a little cough at all rpm's.When bought it,it did this,the plugs I took out of it looked a good tan color,but were gaped at .035.Replaced the plugs([email protected])wires,cap,rotor,points,cond.,rebuilt carb.She still has the cough and I get a little black smoke when it does.All plugs are a nice tan,but #4 has a little soot around the edge.It seams to be running rich,but plugs don't show it and the main adj.screw is only open about 5/8 of a turn.Idle mix screw is open well beyond 1 full turn.the closer either is to 1 full turn the worse the cough.Closing the main screw any and it starts starving for gas.could this be caused by my early model carb?When I set the timing,I was barely able to reach 1/4",the adjusting screw was at the bottom of its travel.Don't know if that's a problem or not,I don't have much Ford experience,always been a bowtie guy until I got my N. Any advice will be welcome.

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Dell (WA)

05-06-2003 09:22:07




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 Re: 48 won't quit coughing in reply to DallasGa, 05-06-2003 06:48:17  
Dallas..... ..try closeing your sparkie gap to recommended 0.025 vice 0.028 and make certain the sparkie electrodes are sharp and square. (file?) I once ran across an early 50's Champion sparkplug chart that recommended a gap of 0.020 for OEM Champion H-10's for N-Tractor.

AS A GENERAL RULE, the occasional koff is NOT a carb adjust problem. Its ignition. And since you've seemed to isolated it to #4, replace the sparkie, $2 cheap. (lotta sparkie problems you can't see with naked eyeball)

There is always the possibility that #4 is having sticky valves, compression check can usually veryify that, but not always since you claim intermittant..... ....Dell

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It's me again...Barnstormer

05-06-2003 08:43:45




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 Re: 48 won't quit coughing in reply to DallasGa, 05-06-2003 06:48:17  
I suspect you have identified your next test, compression check. Do it right, find Dell's 5 puff process (the tractor, not you) and provide the results to this site.



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Evil Steve

05-06-2003 08:07:42




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 Re: 48 won't quit coughing in reply to DallasGa, 05-06-2003 06:48:17  
That coughing or sputtering indicates an ignition problem, not a fuel problem. Carbs do not decide to randomly refuse to supply fuel/air to cylinders for combustion.

First, if you are using off-the-shelf plug wires from some auto store, they're probably resistance wires. This denegrades spark. You need to use good ol' copper core wires (no resistance).

Second, check distributor bushings for side-to-side and up n' down play. Excessive wear in bushings will cause point gap to be eccentric.

Third, check point gap/condition, your rotor, dist grounding strap and all electrical connections. Might even wanna put in a new coil in case it's going bad (a spare coil for front-mount distributors is a good idea anyway).

Fourth, especially with the #4 plug running a bit of soot, make sure you are using Autolite 437s or equivalent which are a "hotter" plug and less susceptible to fouling.

If you aren't getting a nice whitiesh/blue spark, you gotta run thru your tune-up items and get it before you can properly isolate other problems.

Yes, it is possible you are running rich but that does not cause sputtering you are describing.

If all of above fails you should perform a compression test (not a bad idea anyway if you replace your plugs) both dry then wet (takes 5 puffs to get a good reading) in order to evaluate rings and valves. Min compression is 90 lbs with no more than 15% variance between cylinders. These tractors will run with less compression, but an overhaul is nearby.

If ignition and compression are okay, then check for leaking manifold (common problem) and of course fuel screens (all 3). If above all check out THEN start messing with the carb. It could have crud in it, bad needle, float problem.

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Ha Evil Steve

05-06-2003 08:31:06




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 Re: Re: 48 won't quit coughing in reply to Evil Steve, 05-06-2003 08:07:42  
Thanks for the input,My wires are copper from Don B.,Coil and points/cond./cap/rotor are new from NH. All electical conections are brite and tight.The plugs are Motorcraft AL 82 from NH,I'm not shur of the heat range? The dist. shaft seams pretty tight in the bushing but as I mentioned before I suspect the cam may be worn.Is there anyway to check or measure this?Can you tell me if these plugs are hot enough?Looks like a good spark on all 4 plugs.I don't have a comp. gauge so I'm not able to check that.Thanks again,Dallas

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Evil Steve

05-06-2003 08:47:54




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 Re: Re: Re: 48 won't quit coughing in reply to Ha Evil Steve, 05-06-2003 08:31:06  
Glad don b fixed you up. BUT, I ain't real impressed with some aftermarket parts. Just check the burn marks on that nice new shiney dist cap after some hours of run time. Mine are off-center - caused by poor design/quality control. Don't know about them Motorcraft plugs' heat range. Just call NH and ask them if that's their hot plug.

As for cam wear, very easy to check. Your rubbing block on your points does not cover the whole cam. Simply run your finger up n' down on the cam to feel for wear. Doubt it's appreciable (if you can feel any wear at all) AND on these low rpm engines it shouldn't make any difference.

As for your sputtering problem, you've eliminated some of the items, but until you check the rest, you won't know what the cause is.

Chigger ('50 sidemount) has a random sputter but I know it's the dist bushings fault (about 1/16th inch play). I just live with it because she does all I need her to.

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Barnstormer

05-06-2003 06:53:19




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 Re: 48 won't quit coughing in reply to DallasGa, 05-06-2003 06:48:17  
Your adjustment on the distributor suggests either you are measuring on the wrong side or there is a lot of wear. I would re-verify my bench timing and then correct as needed with a rebuild. I have found that the adjuster is very close to center when everything is in goood shape.



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DallasGa

05-06-2003 07:10:49




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 Re: Re: 48 won't quit coughing in reply to Barnstormer, 05-06-2003 06:53:19  
Ha Barnstormer, I checked that timing measurment over and over,I'm pretty sure it's right.I thought maybe the cam was worn,everything else on this tractor is,it looks fine but I have no measurment to check it with.Couldn't find any info on this in FO-4.



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