8N Ford -- Need some help

Battery ground cable was a replacement and was a lighter, perhaps 12volt, wire. I replaced it with a heavy cable as I assume the system is 6 volt positive ground. Correct?

I bought NAPA points, condensor, rotor, plug wires (copper core)and cap and Autolite 216 plugs. The book at NAPA spec'd 216 plugs for a side mount distributor and 437 plugs for a front mount. I didn't recall which it had and unfortunately it's a front mount. What is the difference between the front mount and side mount systems that required different plugs? What's the gap for the 437? Should I use the copper core wires?

The front mount distributor looks like a real dandy to work on and I see it has 2-piece points. Any tricks to installing the points?
How do you time the thing?

I tried to find a manual at Fleet Farm but they didn't have one for the N series. Is the I&T Ford manual OK or should I get a Ford manual?

Finally, the tractor has been painted blue where it was originally red. Where can I get the correct color scheme and paint codes? I like Du Pont paint and shoot most of my Allis with Chroma One but probablty will shoot Centari on the Ford.

I'd appreciate any advise.
Thanks....Frank

One thing I'd do first off, is check the compression, dry then wet. Ford specs: 90 psi min. If you get something in the dry 60-70's range, probably sticky intake valves and sticky rings. I'd use some MMO treatment.

The 8N has 3-filters. one circular screen tube filter that sticks-up inside the gastank from the gas valve and is NOT replaceable but "melts", new valve assy rqd. 2nd filter is top of glass bowl which you can clean by removing the bowl. 3rd filter is in the carb elbow, remove to clean. New fuel valve (w/2 fltrs) $20, sounds like you need one.

6 volt 8N electrical system is positive ground and needs 1/0 (one-aught) thick as yer thumb battery cables. Don't be fer usin' enny of them thar wimpy ferrin battery cables. Remember the 6 volt mantra: "keep'em clean, bright, and tight".

You have the 1-terminal square coil frontmount ignition system that absolutely requires the "infamous ballast resistor" mounted on backside of dashpanel. The frontmount distributor is best serviced by removeing the 2-bolts and done on the kitchen table. The distributor camshaft drive is "off-set" and can only be re-installed 1-way, so you don't have to worry about timing. Points are spaced 0.015 and timing is 1/4". The I&T FO-4 manual ($29 cheap, gettcha 1 and readitt) has pictures on how to time the distributor better than any written description.

Autolite AL-437 sparkies are recommended with todays no-lead gasoline for all 9N/2N/8N's and are 1-step hotter than the AL-216 which is the equivalent of the 1939 OEM Champion H-10. Champion H-12's are equivalent to AL-437. AL-216 might be more prone to fouling, 'specally if mucha oil burner. Gap all sparkies 0.025 right outta the box.

YES, copper core sparkie wires, do not use modern carbon core anti-radio static sparkie wires.

There is some interpertation as to "correct" 8N paint colors which was lt gray sheetmetal and red (vermillion) castiron chassis (and fades). 9N/2N's were solid battleship gray (darker than 8N grey). I say the only time exact color matters is when you're beating out a bump in the fender or hood and since they're so small, I'd paint the whole darn thing all over with fresh paint and not worry about matching..... ....Dell, the 20/20 painter

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